Please please please, I would love to know the details of your 1965 cc
engine. I have read of lots of different fromulas for such a lump, but one
more before I embark on my own would be most appreciated. I race an alpine
engined humber in NZ, currently at 1810cc, but my all out race motor is
about to start the construction phase. I was considering the idea of roller
rockers just the other day, and guessed that there must be some suitable
rocker available. From what I understand, the rocker itself adds a little
extra improvement, but it's main advantage is to allow a cam to be used that
opens and shuts quicker, with the valve still being able to follow the
profile OK. The other big advantage is less valve train wear. I'm sure it
can be done.. and again would love to know your recipe if successful.
The ford 2000 rods you mention, have come to my attention also. The vehicle
I am thinking of is the ford telstar, marketed here from around 1980. The
big end bearing is 2 inches I think, the same as the chevvy rods, but the
width is better. They looked pretty heavy though. Are these the same ones
you are using?
Greg
P.S
Removing the weight from the lifter end of the valve train is gotta make
some difference.
----- Original Message -----
From: <MrZAG57@aol.com>
To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, 13 November 2000 16:28
Subject: 1600 vs 1725 / Chevy Rods / Isky / Lifters
> It's been a while since I've opened my BIG mouth, so let's get it ALL out
> there. Maybe I can start a new riot.
>
> 1). First I am building a 1725 for the race car, BUT the 1600 I have raced
> the last two years has been Dead Reliable and I haven't stunk up the
track. I
> will NOT be able to offer any reliable comparison between the two engines
> because the 1600 was built to be reliable and 1725 is being built for all
out
> power.
> IF you spend the time and money on building a 1600 you won't be
disappointed.
> Many guys have spent a lot of bread on finding, buying, and rebuilding a
1725
> for the street where the 1600 they already OWNED would have been a great
> rebuild and kept the car original. OH MY GOD I SAID IT !!!!!
>
> 2). Much has been touted about the chevy rod conversion. I ain't doing it
> that way. The Ford 2000cc rod is pretty much a direct fit and 5.7". Mine
are
> from Eagle Specialty Products and are a performance rod. I am probably
> wrong... but I don't think you will find someone to make pistons for a
1600
> with the length of the Chevy or Ford rod. The wrist pin height would have
to
> be too high even after the crank was offset ground. Some one will tell me
I
> am wrong, stay tuned.
>
> 3). The 1600 has a Crower cam. I dealt direct with Brian. Jarrid and I
have
> conversed about Crower and I will tell you I agree with him, I think they
are
> great. HOWEVER, the SB 5 Grind, ( Specs of which I don't have here) was
made
> up for John Wait Jr's F Prod Alpine in the early 80's. ( Some one will
> dispute this.) John had used a number of different cams before this grind
was
> done for him. His impression was that it died above 8500, BUT had balls
> galore getting there. He said " It felt slower because it went away on the
> top, but my lap times were quite a bit faster." As we all know it's how
quick
> you can get away from the turns and reach terminal speed that counts.
>
> My experience in getting the cam outta Isky is a nightmare. I had
> conversations with Ron Iskederian and two other guys there. My cam was
> received by them on September 13, 2000. I just got it this past Friday,
> November whatever. I ordered the SB3 Kit which has inner and outter
springs
> and a set of tubular push rods. I hope they did it correctly and I will
let
> you all know.
>
> 4). Here's a good argument starter... lifter smifter. It don't make no
> difference trying to take the weight outta the valve train through the
> lifters. Work the other side of the rocker FIRST. I don't want to drag
Jarrid
> into this but we have had several consentual discussions on this very
topic.
>
> Oh yeah, my machinist is working on modifying a chrysler roller rocker set
> for the Alpine valve train. We may fail BUT if we can make it work, it
will
> make a significant difference in performance. Some one may want to save me
> money and time and just tell me it can't be done, but I can be pretty bull
> headed. ( I know angles, thrust loads, ratios, shaft diameters, blah blah
> blah....)
>
> Well, I pull my head back in and wait for the carnage to begin !!!!
>
> Eric Funk
> ' 60 Alpine Racer
>
> P.S. I have been shooting pictures of the 1725 engine build and hope to
write
> an article for Jan and Ian when I get it done. I'll provide all of the
specs
> and details of a 1965cc Alpine engine. Tee Hee Hee. I can't wait for the
Hill
> at Road America !!!!
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