Hey Dick,
Itâ??s only cheating if ya get caught ð??³
Mitch Seff
> On May 13, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Richard <taylorturbo6@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Ah Mitch....you cheated!!
>
> Dick
>
>> On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff <ms6453@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. Iâ??m not
>> denying the failures but rather try and understand why each particular
>> failure happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas
>> shock on my car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal
>> fatigue. I also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket.
>> <image0.jpeg>
>>
>> <image1.jpeg>
>>
>>
>>
>> Mitch Seff
>>
>>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack
>>>>> <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one
>>>> wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when
>>>> the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and
>>>> not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road
>>>> spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my
>>>> case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch
>>>> spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some
>>>> shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in
>>>> the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the
>>>> bump rubbers. Also note here that iâ??m running the â??semi-compâ?? road
>>>> springs, so itâ??s not often that all of the spring compression takes
>>>> place.
>>>> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that
>>>> this conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place.
>>>> And no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or
>>>> welded at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is
>>>> removed for some other reason.
>>>> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that
>>>> scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several
>>>> times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good
>>>> damping effect.
>>>> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A
>>>> birthday gift from my bride of 30 years)
>>>>
>>>> Dick
>>>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack
>>>>>> <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky
>>>>> Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being
>>>>> fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this
>>>>> is a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use
>>>>> these is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg
>>>>> down to the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number
>>>>> of these from 1" thick wall tube.
>>>>> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it
>>>>> imparts fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then
>>>>> if fails completely and detaches from the frame.
>>>>> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We
>>>>> just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock
>>>>> crossmember.
>>>>> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only
>>>>> does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember.
>>>>> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper
>>>>> shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own
>>>>> issues.
>>>>> Good luck with that
>>>>> Glenn
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