Ah Mitch....you cheated!!
Dick
> On May 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Mitchel Seff <ms6453@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I agree with Dicks explanation of preparation and function. Iâ??m not denying
> the failures but rather try and understand why each particular failure
> happened. I have also had the VB tube shock bracket with KYB gas shock on my
> car for over twenty years with out any failure or sign of metal fatigue. I
> also took the extra precaution of adding a support bracket.
> <image0.jpeg>
>
> <image1.jpeg>
>
>
>
> Mitch Seff
>
>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 4:47 PM, Richard Taylor via 6pack
>>>> <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> My message here, as told before on different TR6 forums, is that if one
>>> wants to convert from lever shocks to tube shocks, it is prudent that when
>>> the trailing arm rises the trailing arm bump stop(s) take the force, and
>>> not the shock attachment points. This can be checked by removing the road
>>> spring and manual lifting the TA up to see where contact is made. In my
>>> case, when done approx. 10 years and around 70,000 miles ago. A 1/8 inch
>>> spacer was added where it screws to the new TA bump rubbers. Also some
>>> shifting around to the shock bump rubbers, so that there was room left in
>>> the shock stroke when hard contact was made between the bump stop and the
>>> bump rubbers. Also note here that iâ??m running the â??semi-compâ?? road
>>> springs, so itâ??s not often that all of the spring compression takes
>>> place.
>>> I write this not to defend the tube shock conversion, but to show that this
>>> conversion needs to be checked out to be sure the above takes place. And
>>> no, the attachment point from my conversion has never torn loose or welded
>>> at any time. I do view this area each time the road wheel is removed for
>>> some other reason.
>>> So far as what I look for regarding shock operation is not all that
>>> scientific. Just press down with my weight on the rear fenders several
>>> times and watch the action, I want both bounce and rebound to show a good
>>> damping effect.
>>> In place is the KYB silver shock conversion, purchased from VB. (A birthday
>>> gift from my bride of 30 years)
>>>
>>> Dick
>>>> On May 12, 2020, at 7:56 AM, Glenn Franco via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
>>>> wrote:
>>> The rear shock conversion sold by the likes of Moss Motors, TRF, Vicky
>>> Brit, and others is likely going to result in the shock crossmember being
>>> fractured at the weld to the frame. I have fixed a few of these and this is
>>> a well known failure mode. The best practice if you are going to use these
>>> is to fashion a diagonal brace from the upper shock mount 45 deg down to
>>> the frame. I have seen some made from angle but I made a number of these
>>> from 1" thick wall tube.
>>> The problem with this conversion is its to simple to attach but it imparts
>>> fore aft loads on the crossmember that causes fractures and then if fails
>>> completely and detaches from the frame.
>>> The lever shocks do not cause fore aft loads and therefore no issues. We
>>> just had another club member suffer such a failure of the shock crossmember.
>>> If you ever have to fix one of these your in for a treat since not only
>>> does it pull away from the frame but it tends to twist that crossmember.
>>> This bracket should not be confused with the one TRF sold that the upper
>>> shock mount attaches to the inner rear wheel well. That one has its own
>>> issues.
>>> Good luck with that
>>> Glenn
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>>
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