Hi,
If you want to run a small diameter hi-po clutch, you will add _even more
sudden_ engagement which on a TR6 is saying something. But Tilton sells a
7.25" clutch setup for this sort of application. The product name is
"rallye-something"... I haven't looked at thier catalogue for a while. If
you have a steel flywheel, you have to drill and pin it, not a big deal at
a competent machine shop. If you have an aluminium flywheel, you need to
have it custom built to accomodate the 7.25" clutch. I know that Fidanza
does this, I spoke with him about it a few years back.
To get less slippage you are going to need more clamping force. Period. I
wound up dealing with (at Fidanza's suggestion) SPEC clutches because I
get hitting dead ends trying to work with clutch shops in my area -
something along the lines of "what's this for?" We _all_ know that line if
we've owned a Triumph long enough to have ever had to buy parts for it
(figure 20 minutes, tops!).
At any rate, the TR6 clutch is just an 8.5" clutch with a 1" 10-spline
clutch disk. If you have access to a clutch book, look for any ratings
that the PP has. TR6's make a lot of torque to start with, adding a huffer
to the equation is going to increase the torque, so look for clutches made
to handle 200 HP or more. SPEC has a stage 2 clutch that might be a good
match.
I eventually discovered that the failure of my clutch was due to one
factor - I installed the new clutch disk (with 23 splines for my close
ratio tranny) without properly re-facing the PP and flywheel face. If you
don't want to have your flywheel cut by a machinist, I found that using an
abrasive wheel made from Scotchbrite at low-speed with a die grinder does
a really good job.
regards,
rml
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