Dick and all - thanks for the advice on the carbs. This is a "new" set of
carbs that I installed on the car. The old set worked fine but looked like
hell and there are no modifications to the engine since I switched carbs.
These carbs had been sitting in a box all wrapped up for over ten years. They
look practically new. I had kits installed and plopped them on and hence the
problem. I will make sure there are no vacuum leaks and then proceed through
the steps of "tuning" as posted on the Buckeye Triumph web site (Thanks Nelson
for passing that on to me).
Jim Henningsen
75 TR6
Kissimmee, Fl (I won't mention the weather)
> Jim---It does indeed seem like your mixture is too lean, but not
> necessarily because the needle is too low in the air piston. First be
> sure all air entry ports are not trying to pull in outside air (vacuum
> leaks). If your engine is stock, and the ignition timing is set
> properly, you should see 18 inches or better on a vacuum gauge, in your
> case some choke may be necessary. If this looks good, then you can
> enrichen the air/fuel mix with the adjusting tool.
> The Allen wrench should drop down inside of the adjustment screw, as you
> know. The outside shell on this tool holds the air piston from turning.
> Screwing the Allen wrench full clockwise will bottom out the needle,
> giving the richest possible mixture. Most engines are happy running when
> this adjustment still has one full turn from 'full rich'. If you find
> that all of your adjustment is used up and you still experience the need
> to use CHOKE on a warm engine, there must be unmetered air entering.
>
> If there's any doubt that this new tool is turning the needle
> adjustment, it's easy enough to take off the top of the carb and watch
> the needle movement as you turn the adjustment screw. Note that if
> somehow the adj. was leaned out too far, (c.c.) the adj. screw will
> become detached. Upward pressure on the needle will then be necessary,
> as you turn to re-engage the theads.
>
> Dick T.
> CF11143
|