Hi,
You wrote:
> My questions are:
> 1. Can this crack simply be welded since it does not involve
> the chassis?
Presumably we're talking about the right/front diff mounting bracket...
Yes/no. The part that is cracked (undoubtedly the "bracket", p.n. 140009)
apparently twists a lot under load. So, if you just weld it now - it'll
crack again in the future.
So, buy the following parts from TRF:
140009 (1 or 2 depending on what you need.)
TRFCD135 X 4
TRFCD136 X 2
One possible problem - I don't see prices listed for TRFCD136/136... not
sure why - but call 'em up anyway.
Or go to the VTR web site and grab the template that Ken Streeter put there
that describes the equiv for TRFCD135 and have someone fabricate them for you.
You do not have to replace 140009, but if you weld it back together, you
should put a piece of steel over it and seam-weld it on all four sides -
but don't use metal that is too thick here - lest you make it so thick you
can't put the nut/washer on the "bolt" when you put everything back
together. Don't laugh, it's been done!
> 2. What type welder works best with this thickness, and type
> of metal.
MIG. You're right under the gas tank when you weld this thing - MIG allows
more concentrated heat. Use mild steel, 3/16 or possibly a little thinner
(like 10 gauge).
Tip: The brake line for the right rear is clipped on to the "rear
suspension crossmember (front)". Un-clip it before you weld the bracket and
try to bend the line so it does not contact the frame while you are
welding. If you don't do this step, add part number 309724 to your order,
as it is very easy to burn through this line.
> 3. Does anyone have any experience with the reinforcements
> sold by TRF?
Most of us have bought these parts at one time or another. This is one
repair that should be done or needs to be done to just about every TR6 at
some point in its life.
Good luck.
And some welders make "housecalls". I wound up borrowing a welder to do
mine. Took about half a day of concentrated effort to do it. The hardest
part of the job is putting the diff. "pumpkin" back in there... it helps to
have a tranny lift (I don't), but it is doable with a regular jack and some
persistance. A second person will help immeasurably!
One last thing, on several of the frames that I have worked on, when the
bottom bracket thingies failed, the top of the crossmember (where the bolt
goes through the crossmember) wound up cracking. If you pull out part
140009 try to check for cracks up along the crossmember. If this is your
situation, the correct thing to do is lift the body off! If that does not
suit your fancy, then you can also cut out the rear parcel shelf behind the
seats for access. I have seen this done on several cars!
C ya,
rml
TR6's in Lobsta Land
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