<<Finally, Ed made me realize what I had suspected for some time,
that I just need to drink more beer! Perhaps the OTHER home
brew will work well for that.>>
Let me 'clarify' Drew's comment by pasting (below) exactly what I
advised him<VBG>!!!
**************************************************************
<<WD-40 is not enough.>>
'Course not, Drew. USELESS as tits on a boar hog for that type
of work<G>!! It's 'ok' for lubing rubber stuff, etc. and that is IT.
WORTHLESS.
<<Any suggestions on techniques to free rusty screws and bolts? >>
As Frank mentioned, "Busty" IS my choice and NOT just 'cause
I sell it.
I have been using it to take cars apart for over 20 years.
Lost ONE (1) 'battle' (just wrote this to Bill in Oregon):
<quote>
Busty WILL get anything loose EXCEPT dis-similar metals
(ONLY 'battle' I have EVER lost<G>). SmBlk Chev alternator
has a 4" bolt that threads into block BUT goes THRU a 3 3.4"
alum. tube. Damn thing wouldn't come apart after 20ish
years in place<G><G><G>!!!
</quote>
Want a couple cans?? Comes with 'straws' and what you
SHOULD do is with a VERY gentle index finger FOAM the stuff
on fastener. Go have a brew or 2. Repeat foaming. Go have
another couple brews<G>. Foam some more on and just let
bubbles disappear then apply a TINY amount of TIGHTENING.
Re-foam and more brews (or other fasteners - LOL).
Let site for a few hours. RE-foam and apply a TINY amount
of UN-DO (aka; loosening) but NOT forcing but a tad!!!!!
Re-start the process alternating between
TIGHTENING & LOOSEING
with OUT 'forcing' the issue in either direction!!!!!
And that IS important!!!!
AFTER stuff IS apart the either washing soda re-rust -
Evapo-rust - etc. but AFTER cleaning in parts washer or rinse
with brake cleaner.
Ed
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