Jeff,
I did not have to wait too long before I knew you would straighten us out
Jeff.
Mike
"Jeffrey H. Boatright" wrote:
> Apologies - possibly I misread the original post. I thought the task
> at hand was to replace the rubber on the ball joint itself. So out of
> curiosity, how long were your going to wait ?for someone to come up
> the this correct method of changing the boots"? :) :)
>
> >I was waiting for someone to come up with this correct method of changing the
> >boots. (Good on ya Guy) Get some typewriter correction fluid and
> >mark a straight
> >line across the threads and the tie rod end nut, then back off the nut a half
> >turn or so and unscrew the tie rod end as you count revs. If you ever have
>to
> >change the tie rod ends and don't need to change the little rubber boot on
>the
> >ball joint, get one of the scissor type separators. MiniMania sells
> >one that is
> >the perfect size for this job and works perfectly with no
> >destruction of rubber
> >every time. Heck, if you live anywhere near San Bernardino, you can
> >borrow mine.
> >
> >Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
> >
> >Guy Weller wrote:
> >
> >> Chuck,
> >> If your aim is to replace the rubber gaiters, don't remove the ball
> >> joint from the steering arm.
> >>
> >> You need to back off the locknut and then unscrew the track rod from
> >> the ball joint, leaving the latter attached to the hub carrier.
> >> Then the gaiter will come clear off the track rod.
> >> If you only slacken the lock nut a couple of flats, and then measure
> >> how many turns to remove it, you can get everything back to the same
> >> settings and won't need to re-adjust the wheel alignment
> >>
> > > Guy
> --
>
> __________________________________________________
> Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
> Assistant Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA
> Senior Editor, Molecular Vision
> <http://www.molvis.org/molvis>
> <mailto: jboatri@emory.edu>
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