Chuck,
As usual, you are a font of useful info. I can't wait to get home and tear
into this again. I getting to be pretty good at removing/fitting the pedal
box now. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks,
Dave Camp (no more tears in my beer)
----- Original Message -----
From Charles Christ <cfchrist at earthlink.net>
To: nateley <nateley@email.msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 2:42 AM
Subject: Re: Bugeye Brake Problem
> ta-da! push rod too long! and no mention of that being the problem in
any
> catalogs or manuals. there was never any intention of mix and match
master
> cyl. swapping . hence no listing for 2 dif. push rods. if you had a
disc.
> master you replaced same and if you had drum master you replaced same.
but
> you never swapped them back then.
> ok the quick fix: remove the master push rod and measure how much you
need
> to remove from end that goes into the master and cut it off and with a
> grinder round the "new end" of the push rod. to resemble the end that was
> cut off. i can not remember where my stuff is at this time since i am
> knee high in early saab 2 stroke stuff at this time(finished my bugeye 11
> years ago now in 26th year of owning same car). somewhere i have a set of
> each length push rod but without tearing shed #2 apart i am not positive
> where to start.
> allow some adjustment in your measurement as far as how much threaded end
> you are allowing for in the block that attaches it to the pedal. try
taking
> off as little as possible as to keep from getting it too short. although
> you can weld a piece on to it and start again with the shortening process
> (it is not hardened nor tempered steel, it is common mild steel) if you
end
> up too short.
> this is not a highly technical project! you want a tiny bit of free play
in
> your pedal when properly adjusted(but not too much). this will allow the
> master cyl bore piston to come back to rest and do what it was designed to
> do at that point , bleed off pressure and release brakes after
aplication.
>
> um the rounding of the end of the push rod is very importaint do not leave
> it rough in finish and try to mirror the finish you give it to the factory
> shape. this is not super critical but will help it in a smooth action
after
> reassembly.
>
> best of luck! don't buy one ! make one!(words to live by).
> chuck.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: nateley <nateley@email.msn.com>
> To: spridget list <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 1:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Bugeye Brake Problem
>
>
> > Chuck,
> > This is exactly what I have been wondering about, but I could not find
any
> > info about different length push rods. None of my manuals or catalogs
> > suggest a different length. You are right, when I remove the return
> spring,
> > there is no free play! Does anyne have any info/sources for different
> length
> > push rods?
> > Dave Camp(getting closer)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Charles Christ <cfchrist@earthlink.net>
> > To: nateley <nateley@email.msn.com>; spridget list
> > <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 1:48 AM
> > Subject: Re: Bugeye Brake Problem
> >
> >
> > > you mention that you have adjusted the pushrod "all the way out". do
> you
> > > have free play in pedal with it adjusted all the way out? i remember
> > > somewhere from my dark past that there were 2 diffrent length push
rods.
> > if
> > > the brake master piston is not completly returning to it's "at rest"
> > > position in the bore it will not release the pressurised fluid back to
> the
> > > resivour and retain pressure as if pedal is aplying pressure. and
after
> a
> > > while it may bypass the seals(though it should not) to release a bit.
> one
> > > other aerea where it might be giving some trouble is restriction in
the
> > > steel tubing. i have seen brake tubes grow rust internally to the
point
> > of
> > > neary completly closing them off? also i have seen the residual
> pressure
> > > check valve in the master cylinder stick too! but after the same
thing
> > > happening with difrent master cylinders i am leaning towards the wrong
> > > length push rod from the pedal. remove the pedal return spring and
> check
> > > for free play between the push rod and the brake master piston. this
> will
> > > resolve that question real quick. you have free play you are looking
> > > elsewhere. no free play, you have conqured another spridget suprise!
> > >
> > > chuck.
> > > returning you to your previously programmed show: cats and witches,
> which
> > is
> > > witch? me-wow!
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: nateley <nateley@email.msn.com>
> > > To: spridget list <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 10:34 AM
> > > Subject: Bugeye Brake Problem
> > >
> > >
> > > > Dear Group,
> > > > I am having a brake problem that is making me bugeyed. I converted
the
> > > front
> > > > drum brakes on my 60 Sprite to disks and changed the 3/4 master
> cylinder
> > > to
> > > > a rebuilt 7/8 bore. The disk setup has rebuilt calipers, new rotors,
> new
> > > > hoses and pads. I also replaced the rear brake hose with new. The
> > problem
> > > is
> > > > that when I step on the brake pedal, after about 4-5 pumps, the
brakes
> > > lock
> > > > up - all 4 wheels and the brake lights come on and stay on. I
thought
> I
> > > got
> > > > a bad rebuilt cylinder, so I had it replaced with another rebuild -
> same
> > > > problem! Since both rebuilds were from the same source, I found a
NOS
> > > > cylinder and installed it - you guessed it - same problem! On all 3
> > > > cylinders, I have backed the push rod all the way out - no more
> > > adjustment.
> > > > Also, on all 3 cylinders, the clutch side worked perfectly. I can
> > release
> > > > the pressure by loosening any of the bleeders. Does anyone have any
> > > ideas -
> > > > I am all out. Please help!
> > > > Dave Camp
> > > > 60 Sprite
> > > > 79 Midget
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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