If I've had to do this (and I'm happy the engine's in good nick) I warm the
engine, drain the oil and change the filter. Refill with clean mineral
then run the car for a day and drop the oil and change the filter again.
It's not the cheapest way but I do this to ensure the engine is as clean as
possible. Refill with synthetic and away you go. The remains of mineral
oil won't make any difference.
Peter Westcott
----------
From: Larry Macy <macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu>
To: Mike Gigante <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
Cc: Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Oil and Oil coolers
Date: Monday, 15 March 1999 22:41
On 3/14/99 10:08 PM so and so (Mike Gigante) said. (And I quote:)
>This is what I do on recommendation of the engine builder.
>
>Use good mineral oil for first 500 miles after rebuild then replace oil
>filter,
>drain oil and fill with synthetic. Couldn't be simpler.
>
>Oh, if you have a new cam/lifter you have to bed them in first (2-3000 rpm
>for
>1/2 hour) then drive under load at <4000 rpm for an hour or 2 to bed in
>rings.
>
>Mike
>
>Mike
>
Actually, the question was - now that I have about 20,000 mi after the
rebuild, what would be the procedure to switch from mineral to synthetic?
Larry Macy
78 Midget (now w/ Valvoline 20/50 looking for a good synthetic)
>>
Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
System Manager/Administrator
Neuropsychiatry Section
Department of Psychiatry
University of Pennsylvania
3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates
Philadelphia, PA 19104
In a world without walls or fences, what use do we have for windows or
gates?
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