This is what I do on recommendation of the engine builder.
Use good mineral oil for first 500 miles after rebuild then replace oil
filter,
drain oil and fill with synthetic. Couldn't be simpler.
Oh, if you have a new cam/lifter you have to bed them in first (2-3000 rpm
for
1/2 hour) then drive under load at <4000 rpm for an hour or 2 to bed in
rings.
Mike
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Macy <macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu>
To: Mike Gigante <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
Cc: Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, 15 March 1999 13:37
Subject: Re: Oil and Oil coolers
>On 3/14/99 8:03 PM so and so (Mike Gigante) said. (And I quote:)
>
>>
>>So you pays your money and makes your choices. It seems to me that
>>by using synthetic oil, you're stacking the odds in your favour, if not
then
>>an oil cooler does the same for mineral oils.
>>
>>Mike
>>
>Now this brings up the next point. If you are currently using a mineral
>oil and want to change to synthetic, other than after a rebuild, what
>would be the procedure. Darin mineral add synthetic, drive 100 -1000 mi,
>chnage synthetic to new and go? Or should there be another change
>involved?
>
>Larry Macy
>78 Midget
>
>
>Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
>macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
>System Manager/Administrator
>Neuropsychiatry Section
>Department of Psychiatry
>University of Pennsylvania
>3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates
>Philadelphia, PA 19104
>
>In a world without walls or fences, what use do we have for windows or
>gates?
>
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