I've done this job on the racecar (and other vehicles as well) and agree on
both items.
1) Double Flare - Always. (or metric bubble flare like is OEM in many
locations)
2) Pre-flared lines are nice. In retrospect I should have done this as it
would have been easier and cheaper.
I spliced my lines together as my bad section was where it goes ove rthe
tank. I cut the OEM lin under the driver door, double flared it and put in
a splice. Then I ran new lines to the back. It's an easy way to ditch the
rear bias valve too. I put in a brake line "patch panel" where it was so I
can put bias adjusters in if I would ever need to. For now it's straight
through.
Z
On 8/16/06, clubairth@bellsouth.net <clubairth@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Mike:
> It's MANDATORY to use a double flare on brake lines. Yes, they are a SOB
> to
> make correctly UNLESS you have a good double flair tool. I have a RIGID
> brand and can make them with no problems. I would say your double flaring
> tool is the problem.
> You will just have more and more problems with the single flair
> connections.
> You might consider using premade lines from the parts store and run them a
> bit long, so you can make up the connections where you want them.
> .
> .
> .
>
>
>
> > I'm in the process of replacing my main brake lines
> > that run from the front to back of car. I'm using the
> > standard fittings on the ends and the adapters so I
> > can use standard flare connections. I did purchase
> > one of those tools to do the double flare. I could
> > not get a good seal at either end. I then re-did it
> > and used a standard flare and still have leaks. Are
> > there any special tricks to getting a good seal at the
> > fittings?
> >
> > Thanks for your thoughts.
> >
> > Mike
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--
Zach Leahy
Fort Wayne, IN
2006 BMW R1200GS - Rock Red
1992 SHO MTX - Arrest Me Red
1993 SHO MTX - Green Racecar
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