Dear Colleagues,
Today, I took Irene's front end apart (Thanks, Fred, for the
crystal-clear explanation of the process...you're right, it isn't hard, just
fun and incredibly instructive and rewarding). I haven't yet removed the
damaged and previously repaired front ladder, but there are plenty of reasons
already for Irene's love of late 50's-early 60's dancing....Both ball joints
(tie-rod ends) were shot...one dramatically so; both sides had severe
bushing and king-pin wear (even the side that had seemed pretty tight), and
the draglink ends were slop-city! in addition, the shocks were nearly
ineffective. Not surprisingly, each and every nut and bolt was different!
Given Irene's history of being raced on a shoestring, it seems that we have
an accumulation of quick fixes. The lower mount to the front ladder for the
driver's side is also extremely badly worn (again this is the side that
seemed "good" in initial diagnostics). Broke a front oiler pipe (should have
paid more attention to your caution to "GENTLY" bend it, Fred), but all in
all had an extremely rewarding day. Since most of the parts for the rebuild
were included in the purchase of the car, I'm pedal down for the next
phase....machine shop for the spindles, bushes, and kingpins; off with the
front ladder to replace.
By the way, have just noticed that the front engine mounts bolt
through the triangular fixing plates of the front ladder. Anyone have any
comment on the possibility of supporting the engine on a tranny jack so as to
avoid pulling the engine? (I have the car on a standard four point hoist at
my unbelievably understanding buddies import car shop)
The saga continues....thanks to all who've had suggestions
PMB
PS: for those of you who haven't done it, the instructions about freeing the
tie-rod ends, which refer to smacking something smartly with a hammer so that
the assembly will "fall out" refer to the end of the steering arm which
extends off the wheel spindle (the ball joint on the end of the tie-rod bolts
to it); after removing the nut affixing the ball joint, you will be at your
wit's end to get the GD thing off...that's where the hammer-smack comes
in...it is delivered VERY smartly to the end of the steering arm through
which the recalcitrant bolt of the ball joint passes, and by gum it works!
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