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41. Re: Blue brake fluid...Blue brake fluid... (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 18:11:15 EDT; Hi Kurtis, ATE Super Blue is good stuff and about all I use now. It's very popular among racers and motorcyclists. I'd rate it as a better fluid than Castrol LMA. High temp (ATE boiling point: 536/39; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00180.html (7,810 bytes)
42. Re: TR4 top question - revisited (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 16:44:18 EDT; Hi Dean, It sounds like you have an aftermarket TR4 top there. There were and are still some variations in design, materials and quality, depending upon who made the top. If it has the slots and flap; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00328.html (8,586 bytes)
43. Re: Wheel Studs (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 13:23:32 EDT; Hi Roger, No, you don't need to replace the entire hub. And, I wouldn't recommend welding the stud in place. It might be possible to have a shop weld up the exisitng hub and re-drill/re-tap it for th; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00382.html (7,631 bytes)
44. Re: TR3 redesign? (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 16:45:04 EDT; Hi Paul, It sounds like you are toying with some custom fabrication. I've seen flares, hood scoops, louvered panels, fender skirts on TR3/3A. But that's about it in terms of fabrication. The only maj; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00643.html (10,425 bytes)
45. Re: TR3 redesign? (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 16:42:24 EDT; Hi Geo, Yep, that's the one! Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. '62 TR4 CT17602L ** fitted with a metal tonneau and rear wheel skirts. IMHO, the skirts were pretty nice looking, and somewhat tie in; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00695.html (7,604 bytes)
46. Re: Locked Keys in Car? NO SWEAT! (not very LBC) (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 15:53:36 EDT; Hmmm, my '97 Land Rover Disco has a keyless remote. I'll have to try the cell phone trick sometime. Also note that most remotes work from a much greater distance if you hold it (the remote... not th; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00751.html (9,234 bytes)
47. Re: cams (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 16:32:14 EDT; Hi Randy, I think you might find the F cam a bit much for a street car, even a relatively hot one. It has 300 degrees duration, which will position it's performance curve pretty high. Combine that wi; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00830.html (9,530 bytes)
48. Re: POR-15 (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 23:37:43 EDT; Hi Frank, I used POR-15 directly on my TR4 chassis and the stuff is nearly bullet proof. The only POR primer I've seen is intended to go *on top* of POR-15, as preparation for certain finish coats th; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg00061.html (9,267 bytes)
49. Re: POR-15, inside frames (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 17:41:03 EDT; Hi Mark & Tim, I'd *not* recommend POR-15 or similar for inside frames, except for those easily accessible areas where you see and check for thorough coverage and that it doesn't run into draingage h; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg00080.html (8,655 bytes)
50. Re: engine question (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 01:23:57 EDT; Hi Paul, "E" just stands for "engine". Based on the number the car would have been a standard TR4 built in 1963. However, it might have been sold/registered a year, two or even three later and show t; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg00234.html (7,667 bytes)
51. Re: Compression test how to (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 20:17:10 EDT; Hi all, Was it ever mentioned to carefully adjust the valve lash first? If so, great. I just got a bit lost in all the *discussion* of wet and dry cylinder bores. When doing a compression test, I lik; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg00588.html (8,366 bytes)
52. Re: 'improvements' to a Triumph? (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 03:46:45 EDT; Hi Steve, If you mean there was a vacuum in the gas tank, then there is something plugging up the vent. It should easily allow air in to prevent a gradual increase in vacuum as the fuel is removed fr; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg00695.html (9,465 bytes)
53. Re: Engine Parts (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 17:52:47 EDT; Hi Dave, I don't know if that's a standard size "freeze plug" or not, but the Moss item I got some years ago was fine. I imagine it would be pretty easy to make one from a larger standard size, if ab; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg00818.html (8,260 bytes)
54. Re: Front suspension? (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 17:56:45 EDT; Hi Tom, Why a TR4A suspension conversion? Why not TR4 and install Revington TR's special top fulcrums that allow camber to be adjusted where you want it? Using this sort of TR4 (post-CT6931) setup wo; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg00935.html (8,385 bytes)
55. Re: TR4 flat fan: parts flying off? (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2005 16:50:15 EDT; Hi Steven, Yes, Standard Triumph did... on two out of three factory cars in their first LeMans 24 Hour effort. Pieces went through the radiators and knocked both cars out of the running. They wisely; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg01050.html (7,528 bytes)
56. Re: TR250 Questions (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2005 20:28:22 EDT; Hi Bill, Intermittent switch and rheostat problems such as you describe are often just some build-up of corrosion or oxidization inside the switch, which might happen if dust gets inside, the car's b; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg01069.html (8,796 bytes)
57. Re: Brake Recommendations for TR4-6 (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 03:53:05 EDT; Hi John, For a daily driver I'd start with no more than drilled rotors, stainless steel pistons in the calipers, EBC Green Stuff brake pads and stainless steel braided brake hoses all the way around.; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg01090.html (10,355 bytes)
58. Re: TR4 steering quesiton (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 20:23:19 EDT; Hi Oliver, I think you are referring to replacing the rubber flex joint "donuts" in the steering shaft, right? It's a fairly easy job. The main things to remember are that there are a couple braided; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg01180.html (7,734 bytes)
59. Re: TR6 Front Hub adjustment, etc. (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2005 19:57:12 EDT; Hi Pete, Did you use new felt dust/grease seals on the inboard side of the front hubs? If so, the ones being sold today are about twice as thick as the originals. I cut about half the thickness off w; /html/triumphs/2005-07/msg00204.html (9,829 bytes)
60. Re: Water pump break-in needed? (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 16:41:55 EDT; Hi Jeff, You really need to ask the person providing the water pump or rebuild service. They should know and ideally should provide written information with the pump since this is a change from the o; /html/triumphs/2005-07/msg00276.html (8,388 bytes)

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