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61. Re: TR6 mufflers (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 15:58:36 -0400 (EDT); It's me again... The one prob with the muffler to which you refer is that the pipes have to bend to get in and out of the muffler. This is not "flow friendly" for our cars. The straighter you can mak; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00058.html (7,905 bytes)
62. Re: I've had it with Lucas distributors! (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 12:40:01 -0400 (EDT); First off, welcome to the fold. Lucas dizzy's mean frustrationor at least have been for me. I gave up after almost 30 years of Lucas frustration and swapped in the Mallory dizzys. The new dizzy comes; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00065.html (8,022 bytes)
63. Re: TR6 mufflers (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 13:02:46 -0400 (EDT); I had one of these on my TR6 for about 10 years. The mufflers looked stock except to two features: 1. the ends of tail pipe were cut square, not at an angle lke stock pipes and 2. the gauge of the me; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00067.html (7,923 bytes)
64. Re: Which engine to rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 14:22:31 -0400 (EDT); Given that you have two engines, you could merge the parts from both to get the best case. I'd use the early motor bottom end and block because the rods are stronger due to them NOT being "drilled"; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00107.html (9,476 bytes)
65. Re: Booster Hose ? (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 14:24:29 -0400 (EDT); You replace the hose once a year? Wow. That seems excessive given that the hose only has to hold a vacuum... regards, rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT unix-linux-hel; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00108.html (7,788 bytes)
66. RE: Which engine to rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 16:06:28 -0400 (EDT); Yes, I agree with all the cam stuff and C/R points. What I should have added to my post was that if you jettison the stock fed. spec. cam (either the 10-50/50-10 or the 18-58/58-18) and put in the 2; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00114.html (7,726 bytes)
67. RE: Good parts article (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 11:38:51 -0400 (EDT); yes, that's a good plan. But don't forget that you need to get the air OUT of the motor too, to make power... I recall that Mr. Good's muffler looked stock the last time I looked at it. I wonder if h; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00128.html (7,444 bytes)
68. RE: Good parts article (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 13:27:57 -0400 (EDT); Hmmm.... interesting. I have a BP270 cam in the race car with similar C/R (over 10:1 - although I'm not positive of the exact C/R due to my pop-up pistons), but my numbers are: Max RW HP - 124.1 Max; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00132.html (7,903 bytes)
69. Re: GoodParts Compression ratio (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 14:30:36 -0400 (EDT); Assuming that by 91+ you mean 91+ RON + MON / 2 (what pumps are supposed to display in the US), then I would have to say that you need 93 octane fuel and you'd have to retard the ignition. 94 octane; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00136.html (8,807 bytes)
70. Re: GoodParts Compression ratio (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 14:33:03 -0400 (EDT); Have you measured the C/R at 10:1 or is that the "estimated" 10:1 (where you shave .xxx" off the head to get the ratio)? What sort of ignition timing do you run (total advance, if you know it)? regar; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00137.html (7,783 bytes)
71. Re: Ride Height (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 10:47:43 -0400 (EDT); Don't frett yet, you still need to add hundreds of pounds of weight to the chassis with you motor, tranny, interior atc. If you get all the weight in there and you still have that "off road" look, t; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00196.html (7,389 bytes)
72. RE: right intake wrong gasket (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 11:23:11 -0400 (EDT); I agree - and to bring home the point, Triumph owners tend to be on the "thrifty side" so a person trying to "flip/sell" a Triumph is probably more likely to apply questionable practices to these car; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00199.html (7,591 bytes)
73. Re: Group 44 Header Question (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 20:05:29 -0400 (EDT); TRF sells them. They are three-piece units, a front part, a back part and a collector part. They would be good for any application although they are probably overkill on a street car (but they would; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00205.html (7,706 bytes)
74. Re: Question about Mallory Dizzy install (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 11:11:42 -0400 (EDT); You are much better off aligning the drive dog with the rotor as exactly as possible. Doing so makes any "gross adjustments" a heck of a lot easier... for example installing the distributor. regards,; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00230.html (8,046 bytes)
75. Re: P205/70R15 tire psi (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 15:13:47 -0400 (EDT); Add my vote to the "even pressure" all around. I run 30 psi front and rear in my Yokohama A-509's. I ran a tad more (32 all around) on the Michelin XGT 4's that I ran before the Yoko's. All my tires; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00256.html (7,710 bytes)
76. Re: Lucas Oil Stabilizer (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 15:41:48 -0400 (EDT); On the "plus side", Lucas Oil sponsors some pretty expensive race cars. Have you even noticed that sponsors with huge profit margins put a lot of money in race cars? I guess it's nice if you have the; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00257.html (7,736 bytes)
77. RE: Brake Booster ... (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 16:09:42 -0400 (EDT); Make sure that you have vacuum on the booster line before you conclude that the booster is bad. If you have a vacuum source, try pulling a vacuum on the booster and see if it holds. If it does hold,; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00284.html (7,561 bytes)
78. Re: British racing Green (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 08:26:08 -0400 (EDT); Point of information - the '74 model year starts with CF12500 (or CR12500), not CF/CR25000 as your message implies. As for the color "british racing green", the line goes something like this: England; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00357.html (9,568 bytes)
79. Re: British Marque Triathlon (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 13:25:39 -0400 (EDT); Hmmm.... Calvin Coolidge? regards, rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: xxx-xxx-xxxx --; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00363.html (6,990 bytes)
80. RE: British racing Green (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 17:52:00 -0400 (EDT); I have an early 74, CF14111U. It has had the rubber bumpers since new. I am the original owner. The car was built in Oct. '73. The rubber bumpers (aka tits) started ad CF12500. The "74.5" changes in; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00374.html (9,304 bytes)

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