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161. Re: RE: Speedometer out of calibration? (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 15:37:14 -0400 (EDT); The only "gear" associated with the tach is the tach drive gear. At the tach end of things, there's a spinning magnet that causes another thingie to deflect. This thingie has the indicator needle. If; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00286.html (8,123 bytes)
162. Re: 3Ways (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 07:32:19 -0400 (EDT); British wiring (from the monster list): Company Address/Phone, etc.: Lesley and Edwin Cehelnik 20449 Ithaca Olympia Fields, IL 60461 (708) 481-9050 (Voice & Fax) BritishWiring@Ameritech.net http://ww; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00295.html (7,811 bytes)
163. Re: Bead Blasting calipers and cleaning up with Brake Cleaner (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2005 15:14:39 -0400 (EDT); yes, you can use brake-kleeen like products. Air dry for a couple of days before you re-install the seals and pistons. rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT unix-linux-he; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00330.html (7,632 bytes)
164. Re: Low Oil Pressure Help (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 21:32:42 -0400 (EDT); The first thing to check is to make sure the gauge is right. Get a known good gauge and see what the oil pressure is. If the gauge on your dash is wrong, replace it. The next thing to check is the o; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00375.html (8,061 bytes)
165. RE: Low Oil Pressure Help (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 07:14:11 -0400 (EDT); Right - good point. Loosing that screw is similar to losing clearance at the cam - the oil feed is directly off the rear main bearing . rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00380.html (7,414 bytes)
166. Re: Carb cleaner - outside (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 10:04:09 -0500 (EST); You're testing us, right? How about: carb cleaner? That's what I use. rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell:; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00002.html (7,531 bytes)
167. Re: Alt Belt (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 10:25:50 -0500 (EST); The answer depends on a bunch of things (like how long the alt bracket is and what pulleys you have (3/8" od 1/2"), but I used a 13 mm belt that is 1145 mm long for my GM alt. conversion. The numbers; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00148.html (7,146 bytes)
168. Re: Vacuum advance (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 11:43:13 -0500 (EST); If you have a '73 with the stock dizzy, the vac. thing is vac. retard, not advance. All the stuff that Gene said is true, the retard is there to help the motor produce less idle emmisions and if the; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00152.html (7,959 bytes)
169. Re: Rear hub question (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 11:45:26 -0500 (EST); Check the runout of the hub flange. If the shop that did your work didn't have the proper Churchill rear hub tool, there is a virtual certainty that your hub flange is bent. If that is the case, it's; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00251.html (8,627 bytes)
170. Re: Rear Hub Removal (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 08:30:05 -0500 (EST); As a long-time TR6 owner, I've purchased a stack of TR6 "manuals". The Clymer edition that you refer to is/was one of ther "bad" ones, IMHO. It was okay for basic stuff and "learning" about cars, bu; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00265.html (7,667 bytes)
171. Re: Parts Country of origin (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 23:33:29 -0500 (EST); Not trying to be funny, but I'll respond to your query with this: would you pay 20% more for parts that were sourced from the UK or USofA? To meet the price points that seem to reflect consumer desi; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00289.html (8,144 bytes)
172. Re: Parts Country of origin (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 23:34:24 -0500 (EST); I forgot one thing... just remember that it's easier to get parts for your TR6 now than it was when the cars we still new. Really! rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00290.html (7,905 bytes)
173. RE: Exhaust scavaging and 6-3-1 vs. 6-1-2 etc.for the TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2005 10:01:44 -0500 (EST); The right header with the right exhaust setup is TONS better than the stock setup. All the work you do on your motor won't come to fruition until you expel the gasses properly. The stock exhaust mani; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00386.html (8,668 bytes)
174. Re: TR6 U-Joint Failure-Update (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2005 10:13:04 -0500 (EST); Regarding the u-joint post-mortem... They almost always fail because the needle bearings don't get the proper amount of lubrication. rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MI; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00387.html (6,910 bytes)
175. RE: Exhaust scavaging and 6-3-1 vs. 6-1-2 etc.for the TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2005 10:36:50 -0500 (EST); oops - I forget the muffler. I agre with Vance - you wnat a good "turbo-style" muffler. These units offer excellent flow and good noise cancellation which makes them suitable for the street. I use a; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00388.html (8,347 bytes)
176. Re: Exhaust scavaging and 6-3-1 vs. 6-1-2 etc.for the TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2005 11:08:57 -0500 (EST); near the rear flange. If you ever get a chance to see the Gp 44 TR6 in the paddock at a race, check it out. The exhaust system is a thing of beauty! Mes ouis! regards, rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q |; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00391.html (8,240 bytes)
177. Re: TR6 rear axle numbers (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 11:17:20 -0500 (EST); Here's my "break point" on the matter - if you have the collapsable spacer, toss the ring/pinion and install the early style. That'll cure the problem forever. The actual cutover to the collapsable s; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00433.html (7,509 bytes)
178. Re: trailing arm pivot bolts (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 13:13:58 -0500 (EST); Many times when you embark on a project like this, you frequently need to decide which parts to "sacrifice". The pivot bolts can rust to the metal sleeves in the bushing... one method to try is to "b; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00436.html (7,929 bytes)
179. Re: 16" Panasports (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 16:22:28 -0500 (EST); Just to be clear on the topic, the stock tires were 185/78-15 (as Dick Taylor said), but the 215/60-15's are the same diameter as stock. I believe 215/50-15 will be slightly shorter than the stock t; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00442.html (7,660 bytes)
180. Re: 16" Panasports (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 16:35:03 -0500 (EST); Note to self... RE-READ MESSAGE _BEFORE SENDING_! ARGHHHHH! the above should be 215/60-16 both of the above are 16", not 15" I run 215/65-15's (for now). rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space fo; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00443.html (8,084 bytes)

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