I'm with you on that, Dave. I usually try to position a wooden carpentry
clamp so that it can gently hold the wire while I apply the iron to the
bullet.
John Howard
On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 7:48 AM, <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 3/3/2012 10:00:42 PM Central Standard Time,
> nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:
> > Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need
> > different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical
> > connections
> > in cars that has a lower melting point?
> >
>
> You have received a couple of well informed replies already but let me add
> my technique to the list.
>
> The secret to soldering is to get the parts hot enough to melt the solder.
> I apply a small ammount of solder to the tip of the soldering gun/iron as
> this will greatly improve heat transfer. Then I heat the bullet since this
> is the largets mass. I then apply the solder to the bullet. When it gets
> hot enough the solder will begin to melt and I feed the solder in to make
> the
> joint. With that ammount of heat and the bullet hot enough the wire will
> quickly heat up enough to take up the solder and the joint will be a solid
> one.
>
> I just made a dozen or so of these joints last weekend on my TR3 and the
> biggest problem I had was caffine related. Trying to hold the soldering
> gun
> sdeady for the 30 seconds or so on a bullet ballanced precariously on the
> end
> of a small, wavering wire while trying to apply solder with the other
> required much concentration for this old man.
>
> It ain't easy and I have quite a bit of experience in electrical soldering.
>
> Dave
>
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