Subject: | [TR] soldering |
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From: | aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) |
Date: | Sun, 4 Mar 2012 11:21:56 -0500 |
References: | <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> |
Here's another twist on current solder. I recently found out that electronic solder is now often a tin/copper alloy - no lead at all. Student electronic kits from Elenco have been supplied with no-lead solder for several years now. Probably it is a result of the government attempting to keep us safe. After all, I know that I must have enjoyed chewing on electrical solder joints as a three year old. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2012 11:01 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] soldering On one of the recent posts I read where someone mentioned not having good luck soldering electrical connections. I have been having an awful time soldering. My soldering iron is a Weller 140/100 watt and the solder I'm using is the same solder I used for soldering plumbing joints. It takes a long time to get the solder to melt even if i place the soldering gun directly on the solder itself. And its basically impossible to get the joint hot enough to melt the solder as the directions tell you to do. It's been the most frustrating thing I've had to try to learn. Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical connections in cars that has a lower melting point? thanks! gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net |
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