So why not eliminate the solenoid as the source of the problem first by
shorting it out with a screwdriver, pliers, or jumper cable? It's a lot
easier than pulling the starter apart. Well, easier than putting it back
together anyway. Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] solenoid or starter?
>> Is there historical precedent (well, we are in
>> the midst of a pecedential campaign, are we not?) for
>> starters getting weaker? Or solenoid terminals to crude up
>> such that it still closes and the starter still turns but
>> just has too much resistance?
>
> Unfortunately yes, on both counts. And telling the difference for certain
> can be tricky without the ability to measure how much current the starter
> is
> drawing. But as noted, usually the problem becomes very obvious once you
> disassemble the starter and examine it.
>
> I would start by cranking for a bit then immediately feeling along the
> battery cables, plus the solenoid and cable from solenoid to starter (if
> separate on a Spit). If you don't find an obvious hot spot (indicating a
> high resistance at that point), then pull and disassemble the starter.
>
> Last time I went through this on the TR3A, it turned out that one of the
> brush leads inside the starter had gotten loose and was being cut through
> by
> the armature. More recently, a Stag starter proved to have a segment
> missing from the commutator and a broken brush lead. Both would still
> kind
> of turn the engine, but sucked way more current than they should and
> turned
> very slowly. You can also get similar symptoms from a worn bearing that
> allows the armature to drag on the pole pieces (so look for signs of
> rubbing).
>
> Randall
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