Bob:
In the old days, brass manifold nuts were standard on most cars, for the
very reason you stated. I generally use them on TRs. They should still
be readily available. Triumph used copper plated steel studs and nuts
on the manifold-to-head and manifold-to-exhaust pipe connections.
Cheers.
Bob Danielson wrote:
> Tom,
>Only thing I'd add is to use brass nuts along with the anti-seize. My
>understanding is that the dissimilar metals (steel studs & brass nuts) won't
>"bond" with time i.e rust together.
>
>
>Bob Danielson
>1975 TR6 CF38503U
>Converting to Throttle Body Injection
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-triumphs@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs@Autox.Team.Net]
>On Behalf Of Randall
>Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 6:41 PM
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: [TR] manifold studs
>
>
>
>>Ideally, I'd like to remove and replace all the studs in the head. Is
>>that feasible with out special tools?
>>
>>
>
>Normally yes, but it depends entirely on how badly they are corroded into
>place.
>
>
>
>>If so, should new studs be installed with red Locktite into the head,
>>and anti-sieze on the external threads?
>>
>>
>
>Personally, I would skip the red Loctite. Anti-seize is definitely a good
>idea, though.
>
>
>
>> --Or should I just leave well enough alone , and put everything
>>back the way it came out?
>>
>>
>
>If the only thing wrong with the studs that didn't come out is that they are
>stuck in the head, then I would leave them there. Chase the exposed ends
>with a suitable die, paint them with anti-seize, and put it back together.
>Save removing them for when you have the head off the engine, and can put it
>in a drill press to drill out the broken studs.
>
>But I would replace the ones that came out, along with the nuts (and all new
>lockwashers).
>
>Randall
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