Tom,
Only thing I'd add is to use brass nuts along with the anti-seize. My
understanding is that the dissimilar metals (steel studs & brass nuts) won't
"bond" with time i.e rust together.
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Converting to Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs@Autox.Team.Net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 6:41 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] manifold studs
> Ideally, I'd like to remove and replace all the studs in the head. Is
> that feasible with out special tools?
Normally yes, but it depends entirely on how badly they are corroded into
place.
> If so, should new studs be installed with red Locktite into the head,
> and anti-sieze on the external threads?
Personally, I would skip the red Loctite. Anti-seize is definitely a good
idea, though.
> --Or should I just leave well enough alone , and put everything
> back the way it came out?
If the only thing wrong with the studs that didn't come out is that they are
stuck in the head, then I would leave them there. Chase the exposed ends
with a suitable die, paint them with anti-seize, and put it back together.
Save removing them for when you have the head off the engine, and can put it
in a drill press to drill out the broken studs.
But I would replace the ones that came out, along with the nuts (and all new
lockwashers).
Randall
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