> 6) pull back and drop down the tranny from below,without
> removing the engine and all that that entails?
The "book" method is to lift it out through the interior, after jacking the
engine up a bit to angle the transmission upwards. As I recall, the frame
gets in the way going downwards. The detailed procedure is in the factory
manual (probably the Haynes too).
Don't forget that you need to support the rear of the engine, don't just let
it hang on the mounts. I've used a block of wood under the oil pan, but
that may be why my pan gasket leaks ...
> So, I suspect something is binding in there.
More likely busted, IMO. Like the springs in the pressure plate, or the
lining away from the friction plate.
> the engine and tranny are bolted
> together in relation
> to each other, so am not sure that eighth inch or so is sufficient
> misalignment to cause drag.
Right. The spacers have no impact on clutch operation.
But, before you go to all that work, are you absolutely certain there is
sufficient freeplay in the clutch slave pushrod ? You didn't mention
adjusting it, which is a periodic chore on a stock TR2-4 ...
Randall
=== This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register
=== http://www.vtr.org
|