My humblest apologies, everyone. I did a search of archives under
"transmission," but I couldn't find the threads I remember seeing about TR3A
transmission removal.
It is true, right, that I can:
1) remove the transmission tunnel.
2) disconnect the driveline
3) disconnect the speedometer cable
4) unbolt the bell housing
5) unbolt the tranny crossmember
6) pull back and drop down the tranny from below,without removing the engine
and all that that entails?
I did drive this 3.3 year restoration project up my 1000 foot driveway.
Clutch slipped going up hill, so as to barely make it. New master cylinder,
new pipes. Rebled several times and no bubbles, but shouldn't matter because
the depressing the pedal makes the clutch release fine, just doesn't clamp to
the flywheel the way it should when you let the pedal up. All springs for the
pedal and slave cylinder are in place. Oddly, I didn't smell a burning clutch
like I would have expected, but then didn't run it longer than a couple of
minutes upslope.
So, I suspect something is binding in there. I did find that I have two
leftover engine mount spacers that I need to put back, which will elevate the
engine a bit, but again, the engine and tranny are bolted together in relation
to each other, so am not sure that eighth inch or so is sufficient
misalignment to cause drag.
(And don't let's talk about the Dragon Lady who refused to come out of her
lair in the DMV office today as I tried to get this thing registered. Not to
worry, St. George Smith shall Triumph!)
Thanks, everyone.
Terry Smith ('59 TR3A TS 58667)
New Hampshire
=== This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register
=== http://www.vtr.org
|