> Can you give me some advice as to which pump is
> best for this purpose without it costing $300?
IMO, the "best" pump is your original, rebuilt. They are more or less
infinitely rebuildable, include a perfectly adequate filter that never clogs
up (as paper element filters can if the gas is 'wet'), and automatically
shut down when the engine stops running.
But if you insist on going electric, I like the little rectangular Facet
pumps that are frequently sold for VW bugs. Be sure you get the lowest
pressure rating, 3-4 psi I think it is, as your British carbs will not hold
back the higher pressures used by many other carbs. I bought one used on
eBay for about $20, it's been running my Stag for several years now.
IMO you should stay away from motor-driven pumps (like the racers use), and
pressure regulators. More things to go wrong, and no demonstrable benefit
on a stock street motor. BTW, there was a batch of bad pressure regulators
made a few years ago, that had a tendency to spray fuel around.
> How about a fuel line filter in
> front of the pump?
Many pumps don't like having resistance in front of them ... if you do add a
filter, it would be better to use a wire mesh type. Most auto parts stores
should have one for about $15, but be sure the ends are really metal.
Friend of mine got one that was chromed plastic, the plastic cracked and it
dumped fuel all over the floor.
But the little Facet seems quite tolerant of FOD in the fuel, mine seems to
pass rust flakes and whatnot with no problem at all. One of the reasons I
like it.
> My old Chevy had a simple aluminum
> housing with
> element in-line fuel filter that took great care of a Holley
> carburator for
> many years and couldn't have cost more than $5.
Good thing to have between the pump and the carbs, although the SU carbs are
likewise pretty tolerant of FOD. I clean the float bowls as part of a major
tune-up every few years, and there's generally some crud in there.
> Any suggestions
> for connecting
> to the wiring harness to turn on the pump when ignition is on?
Depends on where the pump is located. If it's near the stock location, I'd
probably use the green wire terminal on the wiper motor. That has the
downside of the motor stopping if you blow the fuse, but the upside is that
a short in the wire to the pump won't cause an electrical fire. If you want
to add a fuse for the pump feed, then I'd connect the in-line fuse holder to
the white wire on the original fuse block. You could even get fancy and add
an inertia switch to shut the pump down after an impact, off of a Stag or PI
TR7/TR8. My injected VW Rabbit (Golf) had a neat relay that sensed the
points closing and shut the fuel pump down if the engine died, even
incorporated a fuse, but others tell me they are unreliable. Mine worked OK
though, even though the leaky windshield dripped rainwater onto the relay
block.
Randall
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