> 1. Reset the point gap for the first time since getting the car
> last year. Its now at the proper 0.015". Was at 0.007. Any
> thoughts as to what effect the smaller gap would have? Can't
> just hop in and take it for a drive as its raining and the car's
> still up on the jack stands. Just curious what fixing the gap will do.
Should start easier and idle better. You'll also need to reset the timing,
as point gap directly affects it.
> 2. Oil for the tranny- book says Castrol GTX. Use 20W50 or
> something along the lines of 90W gear oil? I remember something
> a while back about additives adversely effecting the synchro
> cups, but can't recall what the final determination was.
I use Valvoline Racing 20W50. None of the EP additive that is said to be
dangerous to OD clutches and brass synchro rings, plus a high level of ZDP
('antiwear' additive, helps protect against metal to metal contact) and low
detergency (detergents are the main argument against using motor oil in a TR
gearbox).
> 3. Oil for the differential- What to use?
I use Valvoline Synthetic 80W90, changed every 20,000 miles (every other
chassis lube).
> 4. Went looking in the toolbox for a socket to fit the head on
> the jack, but it seems to be a funny size. Under 9/16", over
> 1/2", under 14mm, over 13mm. What is it? Guess I should go buy
> the proper handle....
It's a 1/4" Whitworth (BSW).
> 5. Replacing plug wires- Got a new set from one of the Big 3 and
> the new wires aren't the same. Old ones (which I do not know to
> be proper) have soft rubber boots that have only a slight bend to
> them. New ones are hard plastic and 90 degree. Also, the new
> wire to the coil has a push on plug. The old one is screw on (as
> is the coil, which I also do not know to be proper. Silver case
> and reddish top with a female threaded hole for the wire to the
> dizzy). Any thoughts as to which is right? The box that came
> from the supplier was labelled for TR2/3, but....
As Andy said, that's likely a Lucas Sports coil, entirely appropriate.
Other aftermarket coils (including those sold as replacements) take the
push-in connector, but the original Lucas took the screw-in. If the plug
wires are metal-core (as they have to be to work correctly with the original
dizzy cap), it should be a fairly easy job to cut off the push-in connector,
and install the nut and copper flat washer from your old wires. Check
before you cut though, if they're carbon-core then send them back !
There is a photo in the workshop manual that shows the plug wires to have
ring terminals and knurled nuts on the plugs, but I have no idea how long
(if at all) the cars were actually fitted with those. I believe at least
some cars were originally fitted with a hard bakelite right angle connector,
that slipped onto the threaded stud on the plugs and also screwed into the
end of the wires. But I'm not certain.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver TS39781LO (sidelined for OD gearbox install)
63 Sports 6 rustoration project HB7826LCV
71 Stag daily driver Real Soon Now LE1473L
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