Hi Bud,
The problem I had with tapping the sealing block in place was 1)the crank
pulley is in the way, 2)the right side bolt hole intersects with the screw hole
that secures the sealing block to the block. There doesn't seem to be too many
threads to play with and the end of the tap would hit the set screw before I
had sufficient threads cut.
Thanks,
Randy
1973 TR6 CF614UO
In a message dated Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:44:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
"levilevi" <levilevi@home.com> writes:
<< I very careful tapped both holes in my sealing block for the next bigger
size bolt. I meticulously got all the shavings out with Q-tips, grease on
the tap, etc. and pulled the tap out several times to clean the holes out.
Worked for me...and lots less stuff to take off including those clever wood
chips used to seal the sealing block.
Bud Rolofson
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71TR6 CC65446 (Christmas Ornament)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
----- Original Message -----
From: <QAGroup@aol.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 7:54 PM
Subject: TR6 Oil Leak
> Hi List,
>
> Major oil leak between the sealing block and the front engine plate. The
> threads in the sealing block are toast and I want to helicoil them but
will
> need to remove the sealing block first. My question - can I drop the oil
pan
> and remove the sealing block with the engine in place? Any other tricks
in
> sealing the sealing block?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Kosow
> 1973 TR6 225,000miles (or so)
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