Scott :
On most cars, you would be correct. However, the TR2-6 use a crankshaft
mounted fan, and the 'crankshaft bolt' does indeed hold the fan hub to the
crankshaft. There are separate bolts that hold the fan to the hub, but I'm
reasonably certain Jim isn't talking about those.
Jim :
I hate to say this, but it sounds to me like it's time to pull your engine
apart and see what the problem is. Pull the head off and have a look at the
cylinders. If the problem isn't obvious, then drop the pan and start
undoing rod caps until the crank will turn. Then you can concentrate your
efforts on freeing the stuck piston. This can all be done with the engine
in the car, and actually doesn't take that long. If all goes well, it will
only cost you a gasket set and a days work, although I would suggest
changing the rod bearings, and maybe the mains, while you have it open. I
believe Haynes recommends changing the rod bearings every 30K miles anyway.
Note : Contrary to most manuals, there is no need to remove the carbs from
the intake manifold. If you have the factory manifolds, and the bolts
between them are intact, you can just leave the whole assembly (manifolds
and carbs) hanging on the exhaust pipe while you remove the head.
Otherwise, undo the throttle and choke linkages, and lift the intake
manifold complete with carbs away from the engine, leaving the exhaust
manifold hanging.
Randall
59 TR3A
Scott A. Roberts wrote :
>
> The crankshaft nut shouldn't be the one holding the fan on! That
> is usually
> a 1/4" bolt, that won't turn the engine! Don't break that bolt off- you'll
> have to pull the water pump to remove it!
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