Thanks Dave, I was thinking the same thing, the indents on the control head
shaft had to line up with the gap on the stator tube and the nut at the
bottom of the tube had to be tight for that to help. Problem is the wire at
the top end just accordions (concertinas if you a Brit.) unless I pull like
hell on the wires from the bottom as I put in place.
Did you leave the stator tube in place to re-wire? It would probably be a
lot easier if it was out at the time, but then how would you thread the tube
through the washers, bearings, etc that live inside the steering shaft
(especially with 4 butt connectors sticking out the front)?
-----Original Message-----
From: David Moag [mailto:moag@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: August 17, 2000 12:36 PM
To: McEwen, Art
Cc: Triumphs Mailing List
Subject: RE: TR3A signal/horn control head
Art,
In order to get mine to work (so that the center stays still while the wheel
turns) I also have to be sure to tighten up the olive nut at the front end
of the steering box. This helps tighten up the stator tube (which the wires
run through)... when it is too loose my center tries to turn with the wheel.
I've heard from other listers that this bottom nut shouldn't matter -- but
in mine it absolutely does. YMMV.
If you do have to re-wire, I have found that baling wire works very well to
pull the wiring through. You'll want to spread the four connectors out so
that the bullets get pulled through sort of single file instead of all in a
bunch.
Let me know if any more questions (I just went through installing mine a
month or so ago, so a few braincells still remember it!)
Dave Moag
62 TR3B
77 Spitfire
La Canada, CA
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of McEwen, Art
>Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:27 AM
>To: 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
>Subject: TR3A signal/horn control head
>
>
>
>Last year I loosened the 3 set screws and removed the head to tighten the
>nut holding the steering wheel in place. I replaced the control head & set
>screws and everything worked just fine.
>
>This year I repeated the process but actually put some Loctite on
>the nut so
>I wouldn't have to do it again, but when I put the control head back in
>place it free-wheels around the hub of the steering wheel so the signal
>switch doesn't remain at the top of the wheel when I move it but
>instead the
>whole housing moves with it unless I hold it in place at the same time, and
>of course the signals aren't self canceling (feels like I'm driving a
>Citroen!)
>
>What did I do differently? The only thing I could see that would possibly
>prevent it from free wheeling is a notch on the control head that
>might line
>up with a gap on the inner tube in the steering shaft that carries the
>wires. The service manual makes no mention of the control head and offers
>no pictures. I can see nothing that looks broken.
>
>Of course as I'm farting around I'm scraping the insulation off the wires,
>so if I have to re-wire it how do I shove 4 wires though that little tube?
>Fishing line?
>
>Art McEwen.
>
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