Art :
Don't know who is saying the nut at the bottom doesn't matter, but it's the
only thing keeping the control head from turning (everything else turns with
the steering wheel).
The method that works for me is to use 'baling wire' to pull the wires into the
stator tube with the tube out of the car, but only until the first bullet
connector is just barely sticking out of the end. (The wiring harness for the
control head should already have the bullet connectors staggered as Dave
suggests. If not, you need to rework it until they are, since there is no room
inside the stator tube for a loop.) Then, I insert the stator tube through the
steering column, install the gland on the end and screw the nut down finger
tight. Then I pull the wires the rest of the way through the tube, until the
control head seats into the end of the tube. It's best to have help for this
task (you guide the head while the helper pulls on the wires), but it can be
done by yourself, by working first one end then the other.
After tightening the 3 grub screws and everything is in place, and you are
happy with the centering of the control head, tighten the gland nut with a
wrench.
BTW, you cannot substitute crimp-on butt connectors and expect this to work.
The original bullet connectors (available from TRF, Moss, et al.) are only
slightly larger than the wire, and I don't know of any other disconnect that
isn't larger.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
On Thursday, August 17, 2000 10:37 AM, McEwen, Art
[SMTP:Art.McEwen@moh.gov.on.ca] wrote:
>
> Thanks Dave, I was thinking the same thing, the indents on the control head
> shaft had to line up with the gap on the stator tube and the nut at the
> bottom of the tube had to be tight for that to help. Problem is the wire at
> the top end just accordions (concertinas if you a Brit.) unless I pull like
> hell on the wires from the bottom as I put in place.
>
> Did you leave the stator tube in place to re-wire? It would probably be a
> lot easier if it was out at the time, but then how would you thread the tube
> through the washers, bearings, etc that live inside the steering shaft
> (especially with 4 butt connectors sticking out the front)?
>
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