As I recall my new control head was also from TRF. I was able to get the
wires through by cutting just 1 of the connectors off. I replaced it with a
crimp-on (no, I don't want to start the debate about solder versus crimping
again).
I did feed a string through first and pulled the wires through with the
string. I don't recall having much difficulty after cutting that 1
connector off.
In regard to the suggestion about vaseline, a silicone spray may work better
in that it would leave less of a mess.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: George Richardson <gprtech@frontiernet.net>
To: Pete Ryner <pryner@ij.net>
Cc: John Gillis <jgillis@tcd.ie>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2000 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: TR Control Head
>
> Having done this myself with a new TRF control head, I can testify to the
fact
> that, at least in my case, the wires had much thicker insulation on them
than
> the original harness and would not go through the stator tube with the
bullet
> connectors on, and went only with a disturbing amount of force after I had
> removed them.
>
> I didn't find them hard to replace, but I've been soldering on a steady
basis
> for 30 years.
>
>
> Pete Ryner wrote:
>
> > Do NOT snip the bullet connectors off!! (A real pain to re-solder) They
> > will fit through the stator tube, but must be introduced one at a time.
> > Each wire in the harness should be just a little shorter about the
length of
> > the connector) than the next one. It's a tight fit, but they will make
it.
> > I used a piece of safety wire and pulled the harness from the bottom of
the
> > tube. As I remember, there is no grounding wire to the brass ring, but
it
> > is grounded through the rivets to the surrounding metal. Check your
stator
> > tube to make sure it is clear. I found a lot of debris from the old
harness
> > inside. I was able to use the wire to clean it out. It is a little
easier
> > to have someone on the bottom of the tube pulling the wire and another
> > feeding the harness into the tube. Line up the bullet connectors behind
> > each other as they start into the stator and gently push and pull.
Keeping
> > the harness "centered" as it enters the tube helps a lot. Good luck!
> > Pete
> > '56 TR-3
> > '66 MGB
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On
> > Behalf Of John Gillis
> > Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2000 4:11 AM
> > To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Subject: TR Control Head
> >
> > Those following the thread will know I was rebuilding the control head
for
> > my TR2 project. As part of all this activity I purchased a new loom for
the
> > head from Realey Healey. It is of very nice quality and bound in the
> > original type material. Two questions though, I presume I will have to
snip
> > off the bullet connectors in order to feed the loom through the stator
tube
> > ?. Secondly, should there be an earth wire connecting to the brass ring
on
> > the control head, and if so where does it earth to. It is not part of
the
> > new loom as it has only four wires, should it have the earth wire as
well?.
> > I noticed an earth is shown in the workshop manual at the control head
end,
> > but surely any wire woud have to travel down the stator tube as there is
no
> > where else for it to exit the control head.
> > Looking forward as always to the collective response
> >
> > John Gillis
> > 1954 TR2 TS3618. October 1954 (ground up)
> > 1964 Triumph 3TA 350cc (a little gem)
> > Trinity College
> > Dublin,
> > IRELAND.
>
> --
> George Richardson
> The Wyvern - '57 Triumph TR3, TS15559L -
http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
> The Hippogrif - '71 Triumph Stag MKI, LE8176E - soon to get a site of it's
own
> Kitty - '83 Jaguar XJ6 Vanden Plas - Daily driver (when it runs)
>
>
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