Fred,
I did #2 only I used a longer (3 inch) piece and simply drilled the holes and
tightened a nut down to the little bolts. I also welded a 5/8 inch nut to the
center of the flat iron opposite side from the small bolts to give me something
to torque on. Good thing too cause it was TIGHT. It's not a thing of beauty
but it works. Cost me the electricity to weld the nut as I had the other pieces
laying around.
Bud
____________________Reply Separator____________________
Subject: Re: tool
Author: Randall <randallyoung@earthlink.net>
Date: 07/14/1999 10:04 AM
Fred :
Several thoughts, not in any order, worth everything they cost <g> :
1) Use a 1/8" brass pipe nipple, about 4-6" long instead of a chisel.
It's cheap, and soft enough to not mar the plug, much <g> (cut off the
threads, to increase area in contact with plug)
2) Get a piece of flat iron about 2' long, drill & tap 10-32 holes on
2.69" centers, insert 10-32 screws, use threaded portion to engage slots
in plug.
3) My local discount auto parts store sells probably the same tool as
NAPA, for about 1/2 the price. Perhaps you can mail order from one of
the on-line stores.
4) Find a used, preferably damaged (cheap) 2 1/2" socket. Grind fingers
to engage the slots. (Thanks to Brian Schlorff for this suggestion) I
think I might have seen these at Harbor Freight, or possibly a shop that
works on trucks and/or 4x4s would have a damaged one. The 2 9/16" axle
nut socket for my Dodge motorhome would work too.
5) Buy a short length of 2 1/2" galvanized pipe (unthreaded, or cut off
threads). Grind (or cut with hacksaw) fingers as above, cross drill for
1/2" rod to serve as handle.
Hope one of these is useful
Randall
59 TR3A "daily driver wanna be"
Fred Thomas wrote:
>
> Listers, I would rather not use a chisel & hammer in removing the drain
> plug from the O/D unit (A type) in my car, I went to my local NAPA
> store, they make one that should work,$ 91.70, try explaining that price
> to my wife, any ideas, or all help appreciated. "FT"
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