Andy :
I can think of several possibilities, the blocked hard line is probably the
least likely.
1) Misadjusted slave cylinder. With the clutch released, do you have free
play in the slave linkage ? A misadjusted master could probably also cause
the same problem, if the piston wasn't returning far enough to open the
valve to the reservoir. The check is the same, but you probably need an
assistant to depress and release the clutch just before you check for free
play in the slave linkage. Leaving out the 'wave' washer in the valve
could cause the same problem too, I guess.
By free play, I mean you should be able to move the lever to the fork a
small amount by hand against the spring on the push rod, but before the TOB
hits the pressure plate. I forget the specification, but I think it is
1/8" or 3/16" (measured at the push rod). The free play goes down as the
friction plate wears, and so has to be reset periodically.
2) Worn out friction plate. I've never worn one out on my TR3, but my 62
Chevy had just the symptoms you describe when I got it.
3) Worn out or broken pressure plate assy. Again, I've never seen this on
a '3, but have on other cars.
4) Internally damaged rubber line to the slave. My rear brake hose did
this once, where the brakes would apply fine, but wouldn't release right.
Turned out there was a piece of rubber inside the line that would fold
down and block flow only in one direction, sort of like a check valve.
Unlike the later cars, the TR3 has lots of clearance between the TOB and
the sleeve, so it's unlikely it will stick.
As you probably know, the standard TR2/3/3A transmission has no
synchro-mesh in 1st gear. My technique to prevent grinding is to always
start to shift into 2nd, just enough to stop the shaft, before shifting
into 1st. After awhile, it becomes automatic. If it still grinds when
doing this, then your clutch is dragging and needs attention. Constantly
grinding your way into 1st will eventually tear up the gear teeth, and the
parts are NLS. Grinding in other gears usually indicates worn out synchro
rings (or a generally worn box), which should be replaced before the
problem gets much worse. The gears that _are_ available are 100's of $$$,
while the synchro rings are only $20 each.
Of course, then you can implement the solution I plan to use : install a
TR4 tranny ! <g>
Randall
59 TR3A
On Wednesday, June 30, 1999 3:13 PM, Andy Dixon [SMTP:amdixon@erols.com]
wrote:
>
> I have a clutch that acts similar to an automatic; I can pop the clutch
and
> it slides in slowly, just like I was taking off normally (well, a little
> slower).
> I know I'm going to get the answer I don't want but here goes.
> Rebuilt the master and slave and blew compressed air through the rubber
hose
> (why not the metal pipe I don't know). Clutch action when disengaging is
> smooth and immediate, yeah it grinds a little going into gear but so did
the
> '3 I saw at Bowie. I laid under the car and used a HUGE pair of slip
joint
> pliers (the real name will come to me) and moved the lever on the fork,
lots
> of tension and moved back quickly.
> The car sat for several years before I bought it.
> Is it likely I have a blockage in the metal pipe that restricts the flow
of
> fluif (sorry had to do it) back to the master? Or, has oil/grease on the
> sleeve that the Throw-out bearing carrier rides on gotten sticky, slowing
> the return of said carrier as it engages the clutch? Or, (pregnant pause)
> might it be some other gremlin? (whoops, sorry, different car all
together -
> why would someone call a car "Gremlin"? - never mind; don't answer!!!)
>
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