Hi Brad,
I have twice ordered replacements for those trunnion washers and never
rec'd anything remotely similar to the original, there was no way they
were going to fit. Appeared to be made from too hard & heavy a material
(for the "serration process", ok maybe at 300 ft lbs!), & were incorrect
diameter, too small to retain the dust seals. I gave up and reused the
originals.
Also found the both new trunnions had been too deeply machined at the
inner dust seals, so had to use a handful of shims (12 or 16 total per
trunnion) to take up the extra slack. This doesn't effect the fit of the
actual joints, which are very good, just fills in around the dust seal.
Finally, where the vertical link threads into the trunnion, the new dust
seals were smaller than original and left alot exposed, so I "expanded"
the seal by slipping one of the old dust seals (from the horizontal
portion) over it. Not concours, I know, but...
I'm still trying to decide whether to drill the new trunnions to accept
a cotter pin with castlated nut, or just hope and pray the nyloc
"replacement" nuts, "torqued" to 4 whole ft lbs, stay in place at race
speeds over at Sears Point, or at even higher velocities during a
commute up Highway 101!
I'm printing your note and adding it to my factory manual! Thanks for
posting it.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
>
<snip>
>
> 3. Continue tightening the nuts equally, to an initial torque load of 30
> lb.ft. This permits the outer washer (46) to be serrated by the self cutting
> splines located against the thrust washer (37).
>
> <snip>
> I check my TR4 service manual and in the book itself it doesn't mention the
> 30 ft.lb first torque step. It sounds like its a fairly important one as
>well.
>
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