Jim,
If the cylinder is frozen solid, there are a couple of possibilties. You
can use compressed air (it works... but gets brakefluid everywhere). My
personal favorite would be to hook the cylinder back to the hydraulic line
and pump the brakes a few times (assuming the rest of the system is intact).
In either case make provisions for limiting the spread of the brake fluid...
:-)
If you are replacing the seals then it's ok to use penetrating oil... it's
the rubber pieces that will react to the oil.
If the cylinder is rusted shut... maybe you're better off replacing it
anyway?
JMO
Jim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ct54531@aol.com [SMTP:Ct54531@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 1999 4:33 PM
> To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Wheel Cylinders
>
>
> Listers:
>
> I am doing the rear brakes on my 65 4A and have the wheel cylinders out
> and
> want to replace the innards. My Haynes says nothing about it but my Ken
> Ball
> says to remove the clip and the dust cover (done) and then pull out the
> piston
> and the seal (not done).
> Okay, how do I do that? I have tried twisting (a little) but it doesn't
> move.
> Should it come out easily? I seem to recall a direction somewhere that
> cautioned not to let it fall out when removing the cylinders so it must be
> an
> easy fit. Keep in mind these cylinders have not moved for about ten years
> so
> anything is possible. Is it okay to use Blaster on it. I also seem to
> recall a
> caution about not using anything but brake fluid on brake components. Ball
> says to soak the parts in "methylated spirits". Is that alcohol - or
> thinner?
> Gasoline?
> Anyway, as always, TIA.
>
>
>
> Jim
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