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Re[2]: One leak stops, another starts...

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net, rgb@exact.com
Subject: Re[2]: One leak stops, another starts...
From: jbonina@nectech.com
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:37:57 -0400
     
     
Subject: Re: One leak stops, another starts...
Author:  rgb@exact.com at SMTP
Date:    4/15/14 12:20 AM
     
     
     
>>>      from the heater valve near the top,back of the valve cover. When the 
>>>      valve is in the open position (the dash control knob pulled all the 
>>>      way out), it's leakin' like a sieve. When I close the valve(knob
>>>      pushed in) it stops.
     
>>I've seen this plenty of times.
     
I have seen a number of "new" valves do this after 6 months of hot 
Texas running.  The quick solution is to leave it in the position that 
does not leak..  followed by total failure later.  These are also 
responsible for the "runs a little" hot problem where it sucks air 
into the valve upon cooling allowing the block to run low on water,
and does not allow pressure to build correctly, very difficult to spot.
     
This is one darn difficult repair on a roadside due to the odd fittings. 

***Please explain. Is this $4 vale in your car now. I'm not a plumber. 
Give me some details. I'dlike to be able to turn on the heat from inside 
the car. Can that be done with your setup?

I carry a 3/8" ball valve with nipple and 90 degree fitting for repair. 
Ny current car has been running in this mode for 2 years since the
3rd $30 valve gave up.  I do not recommend this kludge, but a $4 valve 
will last a lifetime.  Why don't they put one of these in the old
form factor instead of selling you another timebomb - a rubber diaphram, 
you've got to be kidding me!
     
Just for grins, where did you purchase this piece of history?
     
     ***Purchase what? The car; in Mass. The valve; from BPC (thru Moss)
     
Roger
     
--
Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 345-2879

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