Sam writes...
>
>I was so close to closing the deal!!! I am aware of the thrust washer and I
>basically understand the clutch, but have not (yet) replaced one. What is
>happening with the crank endplay that would cause the clutch to fail to
>disengage?
Don't panic Sam...remember that we're just guessing via e-mail so it
doesn't *have* to be thrustwashers.
On Spits, it's fairly common for the thrustwashers to wear so badly
that they actually fall out of position and drop into the oil pan.
When this happens, the crankshaft can move fore and aft 1/4" or more.
When you step on the clutch the TO bearing is pushing forward on the
pressure plate springs. The pressure plate is bolted to the crank
which is designed to move forward no more than say .010" . <I'll look
this up for ya>
If the crank can keep moving forward a full 1/4", then you run out of
pedal travel before ever releasing the pressure plate spring.
a second try might work because the hydraulic clutch tends to
self-adjust and it could take up the slop before the crank works it's
way back to the rear.
Hope this makes some sense...I'm only on my first cup of coffee and
I'm not anywhere close to being awake. :-)
Anyway...you can't buy the car until you check the thrustwashers
because when they drop out the engine is generally toast. They are
very easy to check. Pop the bonnet and eyeball the crank pulley.
Have a helper work the clutch back and forth while you watch.
After he releases the clutch, grab the pulley and push the crank
rearward as far as it will go. Any movement over 1/8" is too much and
I'd negotiate the price based on a new engine.
BTW, it doesn't *have* to be bad thrustwashers. Bad clutch hydraulics
could also cause the symptoms you describe. But this is the one you
really need to check on before purchase.
Cheers!
Tom O'Malley
'74, '77 spits
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