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Re: paint questions

To: peterz@merak.com
Subject: Re: paint questions
From: ingate@shiseis.com (Shane F. Ingate)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 97 12:11:04 PDT
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Peter Zaborski wrote:
        > I would really appreciate any tips on painting from those who
        > have been there.

Peter,
        I, like you, are looking around for a "non-concourse" paint
job to restore my red '74 TR6 to its original Carmine.  I've pounded
the pavement getting quotes (from 4 shops here in San Diego), etc, 
so here are my (brief) findings to date:

1) A good quality "back to the metal" but not frame-off paint
   job will set you back $2-$3K.  This assumes that only a minimal
   amount of bodywork needs to be done (ie straightening, filling,
   etc).  Bodywork can escalate these prices considerably, perhaps
   even doubling the price.

2) Preparation is everything!  Painting is simple and cheap!
   A concourse paint job involves many layers of paint with sanding
   between coats.  This is expensive!  For a driver, stick with
   a simple single coat over a very-well prepared surface, it will
   probably outlast our old cars with correct care.

3) If you strip parts off the car yourself, then have it painted
   and bolt the stuff back on, that is a big saving.  The price of the
   above job will possibly drop to $1500 (again, assuming minimal body
   work).  How many parts to remove?  Keep going until you are sick
   of it!       

4) Stripping the paint to bare metal is done with
   aircraft-industry-quality chemical paint stripper.  The cost of
   the stripper is about $100, and a paint shop will spend 10 hours.
   If you do this yourself, there is a saving of perhaps another $600.
   One plan is to have a "stripping party" ;)  Invite your mates
   around for beer and pizza, paint the stripper on, let it do its
   stuff then scrape it off.  Once its stripped, then you will see
   how much bodywork it needs.  Do it in a well-ventilated place too!
   I've been told sanding is a no-go except for a inexpensive
   paint-over-paint jobs; any problems with the underneath paint will
   eventually come through the new paint.  There is also a trick here
   to mask off some areas prior to stripping, usually the gutters
   around the hood and bonnet.

5) At this stage, we are looking at a hi-quality paint job for
   less than $1K.  This is usually a "2-pack" job, with a coat
   of clear over the paint.  Then you have to CAREFULLY retrim the
   car!  Depending upon your endurance and threshold of pain,
   this may be your last $1000 paint job.  To me, it is worth trying
   at least once.
  
6) And a final warning; many folk are afraid to drive their newly
   recoated cars, and spend more time in the garage than they did
   before.  This is poor showing, so you have to resist your
   nervousness and drive it more!

I look forward to hearing of the REAL experiences of others on the
list.

        Shane Ingate "wannabee painted" in San Diego

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