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Re: ammeter/voltmeter swap.

To: gpetrola@prairienet.org, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: ammeter/voltmeter swap.
From: DANMAS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 18:46:30 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: british-cars@Autox.Team.Net
In a message dated 97-06-02 17:13:57 EDT, gpetrola@prairienet.org (Gregory
Petrolati) writes:

> I'd like to swap my TR4's ammeter for a volt meter. I've bought 
>       one and have replaced the "glass" and bezel so it will resemble the 
>       ammeter currently in the `4. Queston is... Do I hook it up the same 
>       way the ammeter is hooked up? Or do I need to do some "creative 
>       wiring" If so, how do I do it?

Greg:

The wiring changes are very simple (assuming you have converted to negative
ground. If you have not, I need to ask you a couple of questions before you
proceed):

1) disconnect the ground lead from the battery

2) remove the dial lamp and the wires to the ammeter, and remove the ammeter.

3) there are two (or three, if you have O/D) wires to the ammeter - one
Brown/White, and one (or two) Brown. connect them all together, and insulate
well. Be sure to make a good connection, because this connection carries ALL
the current in the car except for the horns and starter.

4) insert the voltmeter. If it is a Lucas or a Smith, insert the lamp from
the old ammeter. If not, cut the Red/White wire to the lamp, and splice it to
the lead coming from the lamp in the voltmeter (There may be two R/W wires to
the lamp). There may or may not be a separate ground lead for the lamp. If
there is, connect it to any convenient ground point.

5) connect the (+) lead to any convenient Green wire (Green wires are hot
only when the key is on, and are fused). Do NOT connect to the Green/Black
wires going to the other gauges! The G/B wires come from the regulator, and
that's not what you want to measure!

6) connect the (-) lead to any convenient ground point.

7) reconnect the ground lead to the battery.

That's it!  Of course, there is always the possibility that the car has been
modified, and is not as described above. If this is the case, get back to me,
and we will revise the instructions as required.

Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN

'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
                    www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74


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