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Re: FW: Stuck Bonnet

To: CMaster808@aol.com
Subject: Re: FW: Stuck Bonnet
From: Ken Streeter <streeter@sanders.com>
Date: Sat, 03 May 1997 07:56:02 -0400
Cc: wrburgman@sbt.net, Triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
References: <970503071937_-1367256625@emout19.mail.aol.com>
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CMaster808@aol.com wrote:

> I sure hope someone answers your question better than I
 
> They have talked on this before but I didn't pay alot of
> attention like normal, but I seem to remember them saying
> something like going at it from behind the glove box????

> Is anybody out there that knows how to cure this for sure
> hate to send Rick on a wild one???????

This is one that comes up from time to time.  There is an
article about it on the VTR WWW pages at
    
    http://www.vtr.org/maintain/stuck-bonnet.html

--ken
VTR WWW Maintainer -- http://www.vtr.org
'70/'74 TR6 Daily Drivers

-- 
Kenneth B. Streeter         | EMAIL: streeter@sanders.com
Sanders, PTP2-A001          | 
PO Box 868                  | Voice: (603) 885-9604
Nashua, NH 03061            | Fax:   (603) 885-0631

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                   Bonnet release cable broken! (TR4-TR6)

                      by Ken Streeter, with input from
                        6-Pack, TRF, and Robert Shaw
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
A broken bonnet release cable on the TR4-TR6 can cause no end of difficulty
in getting the hood up to fix the problem! This is a common problem in North
American TRs with LHD steering, since the hood release cable is quite long
and cumbersome, having been intended to be on the right side of the car.

The summer 1994 issue of the 6-Pack (TR-6 club) newsletter published a
reprint of a Triumph Technical Service Bulletin dealing with broken hood
releases. In summary, you will need to remove the glove box, to gain access
to one of the holes through the firewall. (There are plenty of likely holes
for the heater control, choke cable, etc.) With a long screw driver, and
lots of patience, you should be able to reach and activate the lock release
mechanism.

Another technique has been suggested by Robert Shaw, who had this problem a
few years ago, and took the car to his mechanic. The mechanic put the car on
a lube rack and with a long extension and a 1/2 socket reached right up and
presto unbolted the hinges at the front of the bonnet. It took him about 20
minutes and it was opened.

An ounce of prevention...

A smart trick to prevent future problems is recommended by TRF: attach a
wire to the release lever, and route it so you can pull it to open the latch
from below or from in the cockpit. There are a number of convenient holes in
the TR6 bodywork to stuff the cable through, and it will be *extremely*
helpful if your primary cable ever breaks, which seems to happen at the
worst of times! It will be easier to use if you put a loop or a T-handle at
the end to pull on.

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