Greetings; After yanking around with the thrust washers this week, I got
to wondering why I never had this problem with my other cars. I dug out
the Ford manual from my Tiger. I read up on how they handle crankshaft
runout. My, my, what an improvement over the Triumph system! Ford uses
the main bearing, and wraps it 90 deg. over both faces of the bearing
cap, in effect making a one piece thrust washer/main bearing.
This also is done on the engine block bearing carrier, so you wind up
with a 360 degree thurst bearing on both sides of the main. Cleaver, and
obvioulsy a lot more durable than the Triumph set up. I've probably put
300,000 miles on various small block Fords over the years, and never had
to open the bottom ends for any reason. My '91 Mustang GT had more than
one trip to the redline! (Oh, sorry officer, I thought the tach was the
speedo at 65!)
Now, here's where I start daydreaming. (OK, "bench racing")
I know we've discussed milling the main bearing cap and the block so
that the thrust washers could be pinned in for 360 deg. coverage. Why
not see if it's possible to take it to the next level?
Here's what I'm thinking-
1.) Find an engine that uses a one piece bearing/thrust that has the
same crankshaft main bearing journal dimensions as a Triumph. Any of you
"listers" in the auto parts or bearing biz? Access to this info would be
a big help.
2.) Machine the Block and bearing cap to accept this new one peice
bearing/thrust setup.
3.) This would totaly eliminate the damage caused by the present setup.
It would be impossible for the thrust washer to drop out into the oil
pan. That's when the damage happens- the crank starts maching the block
and cap because the thrust washers fell into the oil pan. With the one
piece set up, it simply can't happen! It'll wear, but you'll not going
to get the damage of the other setup.
Is this crazy? Maybe, but I'd do on the block I'm taking out of the car
if I had the machines and skills to try this concept! What y'all think
of this?
|