Though I haven't tried TR-6 seats, I wish I had had the below listed
advice before I started doing GT-6 seats...I got great kits from
England (marginal instructions) which included about 1000 pieces of
different shaped/textured foam and tubing, and neat seat covers...in
five pieces for each seat.
Now the GT-6 seat is unique...but after gluing foam and lint to my
fingers for about three hours, holding flat foam pieces in the
required shape so that I could end glue them into complex curves, and
after trying hard to pull the fabric around the curves of the
seats...I share the advice below! GET A PROFESSIONAL TO DO THE
ASSEMBLY. Your wife (or significant other) will appreciate the better
disposition that decision will produce, your hands and fingers will
look less wherewolfish, and you'll probably have better quality seats.
The several hundred hours I have devoted to just the seats could have
been spent contemplating the bodywork progress in the company of a
beer (or real ale, I suppose)...
I just noticed...uhmmmm???? the fabric seems to be pulling away from
the foam and the foam from the steel tubing on the driver seat...is
the spray glue holding.....? Aaaaargh!
PMcQ
73 TR-6
72 GT-6
69 GT-6+ (2) with 3M (un)glued seats
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: TR-6 seats
Author: DANMAS@aol.com at Internet
Date: 4/3/97 1:23 PM
Tue, 1 Apr 1997, Gary Nafziger wrote:
<< Has anyone re-done seats on their own with the kits from TRF or Moss? Is
<< this something within the skills of an average joe?
Gary:
Both Moss and VB say it is an easy task, requiring only a few hand tools and
a couple of afternoons. Charles Runyon of TRF, says it can be done at home,
but it is not an easy task. Listen to Charles. I used a TRF kit to do the
interior on my own '71, and it was a bear.
As Berry Kercheval said:
<< When you cover the sides of the seat abck, be SURE to draw the cover UP
far
<< enough. No, that's not good enough--FARTHER. I wound up with gaps at the
base of the headrest that noone ever notices unless I point them out, but
still...
I did everything myself, but I gave up and took them to a pro to do just what
Berry said. I was afraid that I would tear them if I tried it. I could never
get the gap to go away completly. It cost me $60 to get it done.
Unless you just have to do it yourself, or feel the kits are the only way to
maintain originality, I would go with the advice given by Larry Zink, and
have a pro do it. There are too many things on your car that you can do
yourself and enjoy to fool with seats.
Just my $0.02 worth.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
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