Ken Bertschy asked for a kill switch:
Very easy, Ken. Just buy a simple on-off switch, rated 6 amps or better.
connect one side of the switch to the negative terminal of the coil, and the
other side to ground. To ease your concerns about damage, just remember, the
points in the distributer switch the neg terminal to ground, on & off, as the
motor runs. All you are doing is to effectively keep the points closed. Since
most thieves are aware of the kill switch, I recommend hiding the wires under
the hood as much as you can.
Tim Clayton has a problem with his turn signals and radio:
Tim, since the left TS works, every thing is OK up to the TS switch. Here is
how to run down the problem. Under the dash, you will find a wiring harness
coming from the steering column, with three wires, Green/Brown, Green/White,
and Green/Red. Green/Brown is power to the switch from the flasher unit, and
the Green/red is to the left TS lamps. Using a voltmeter or a test lamp,
check if there is voltage on the Green/white wire with the TS switch in the
right turn position and the ignition switch on. If not, you have either a bad
switch or a break in the wire from the switch. remove the switch and examine
it. It will be evident how the switch works, and if any thing is broken, it
will be visible. Chance are it can be fixed. The most likely problem is
corrosion. If so, use fine sandpaper (600 grit) and clean the contacts and
try again.
If you do have voltage, then there is a break in the green/white wire
somewhere in the wiring harness. Rather than tearing apart the harness, I
would run new wires to the TS lamps, tieing them to the harness with tie
wraps (black so the don't show up as bad). If you want to use wire of the
original color, a good source for authentic British wire and wiring supplies
is British Wiring, 20449 Ithaca Road, Olympia, IL, 60461, 708-481-9050. (btw,
I did spell Ithaca correctly, it is not Ithica!).
As for your radio, I can't imagine why the DPO used a voltage convertor -
none should be required. Are you sure it is not a noise filter? You said you
did not want to rip out wires, but if the wires were added by the DPO, ie.,
not original, that's exactly what I would do. Start all over with new wiring,
following the instructions that come with your new radio. As for the source
of power to the radio, tie in to any Green wire that's convenient (Green
wires are hot when the ignition switch is on, and off when the ignition
switch is off. These wires are the primary source for all loads that are
switched on with the key, eg heater, turn signals, wipers, etc.) Since TR4s
do not have an accessory position on the ignition switch, you may want to
connect directly to the battery so you can listen when the engine is off.
I hope this helps. If I can be of further assistance, let me know.
Dan Masters
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6 Stock, restored
'71 TR6 under construction with Ford 302V8/T5 5-speed
'74 MGBGT original
'68 MGBGT organ donor for the 74
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