At 01:18 PM 8/29/96 EDT, you wrote:
>If I am not mistaken, I have read in a TR book, that with wet sleeves, like the
> TR2-4 that they do not recommend moving the pistons with the head not
>tightly fastened. I may have to remove the head from mine and am curious if ot
>her wet slevved owners have tried the "rope trick"?
>
I heard of some good results using "rope thru the plug". However, it
did not work for me. Maybe mine was an exception. I had to remove all 14
studs on my TR6 before the head would budge. There was so much built up
carbon on four of the studs, I went through 3 stud removers - Sears (removed
easy first 6 of them),Snap-on's 7/16" (5 more) and then Snap-on's 10mm (last 3
studs). Before the the stud removal, I tried the rope. Then all (at least 3)
types
of rust penetrant. No good. I even tried using an engine hoist. Moral of the
story? If you're going to remove the head from an old engine, be prepared to
spend
a long time / many nights if the rope trick does not work.
Some lessons I learned. 1) Try the rope thing. 2) If the engine stops
cranking when the rope occupies the volume of the cylinder and the head doens't
move - STOP using the rope trick. Go directly to stud removal. 3) Don't bother
with an engine hoist. 4) Liquid wrench and other penetrants won't help in this
particular situation.
Jeff N.
'71 TR6
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