If I am not mistaken, I have read in a TR book, that with wet sleeves, like the
TR2-4 that they do not recommend moving the pistons with the head not
tightly fastened. I may have to remove the head from mine and am curious if ot
her wet slevved owners have tried the "rope trick"?
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
= Douglas D. Mathews =
= Voice: 706-542-6820 Internet: MATHEWS@UGA.CC.UGA.EDU =
= FAX: 706-542-0349 =
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 09:53:02 PST
From: "Jim Sudduth" <jim.sudduth@autodesk.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, cyf@drmail.dr.lucent.com
Subject: Re: TR4 cylinder head replacement
Ok, am I going to be the first one on the list to elucidate The Rope
Trick? :-).
Here goes:
If you get all of the nuts holding the head off and everything removed
and you can't get the head to break loose from the block, try The Rope
Trick.
Get some soft nylon rope, the small filament kind. About 15' should
do. Find out which pistons rotate in tandem. On my TR6 it's 1 and 6,
on the '4 it might be 1 and 3 (just guessing) - let's assume it is 1
and 3. With all the spark plugs removed, turn the engine by hand and
watch through the spark plug hole until you see the number 1 piston
coming up. When it's about 3/4 of the way up start stuffing rope into
the cylinder. Be gentle but stuff it full. Then also stuff number 3
full. Then turn the engine over. You can do this by hand or with the
starter motor. I used the starter and it worked like a charm. The head
should pop loose. Now just carefully work the head up off the studs,
being careful not to trap your fingers under it (they're heavy) and
use things like wooden blocks and stakes to pry and hold it - don't
use metal tools because of the danger of scratching the head/block
mating surfaces.
Jim
jims@autodesk.com
'74 TR6 CF20076U
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: TR4 cylinder head replacement
Author: cyf@drmail.dr.lucent.com at SMTPCC3
Date: 8/29/96 9:24 AM
I am about to replace the cylinder head on my TR4. Found a crack in
the original one after blowing the gasket a couple of weeks ago.
What a bummer suffering serious down time in the middle of summer!
Fortunately I found a couple of places with rebuilt heads on the shelf
so I hope to be motoring again soon!!
Anyway, I have just a couple of questions. Does anyone know the
significance of the numbers stamped on the head. There are 2: one
on the top, in my case "H220", and one on the side "302137". Just
curious to know what these mean.
Also I would welcome any general wisdom about pitfalls to avoid,
tweaks to be made, or any other insights from those of you who have
done this before.
Thanks,
---------------
Charlie Farwell
1962 TR4 #CT3852L
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