Dave Williamson (silikal@aol.com) wrote:
>I must make the usual Carroll Smith-induced caution against the use
>of wheel spacers. They convert what should be a shearing force on
>the lug studs to a bending force. Not good at all. If you must use
>wheel spacers, make sure they fit tightly on the lug studs (and you
>may want to add two or three hardened dowel pins with a close fit
>tolerance -- similar to dowelling a flywheel). Ideally, the lug studs
>would be shouldered through the spacers so they act as dowels,
>and eliminate the slow milling action the threads will have, but that
>would mean replacing the standard lug studs -- exactly what you're
>trying to avoid doing in the first place.
I was similarly concerned over use of 1/4" (or so) spacers, used to avoid
cutting studs when fitting wire wheels. However, the TR3B SCCA racecar I
bought had been raced for many years with spacers, though not on wire
wheels. Spacers were just to slightly widen the track for racing. Nothing
fancy for wheel studs, that I recall. I figured that if they had held up
for racing, they should do OK for street use. But I was very interested in
getting opinions from others.
Although I have cut off studs to fit wire wheels years ago, I can recall
some regret when wanting to fit dish or mag wheels. When I got a set of ARE
magnesium wheels, I wished my wheel studs were long.
And if the question of whether clockwise or counter clockwise adapters go on
the left or right side (and whether or not they tighten as they roll) has
not been "beaten to death", let me add:
I was suprised over discussions on the list concerning which direction wire
wheel adapters are supposed to turn (and tightening or not, as you drive).
I went out to the garage to check my knockoffs. Both of my TRs that have
wire wheels had spinners labeled "LEFT SIDE" on the left and UNDO arrows
indicating right-handed threads (counterclockwise to undo). Those on the
right side of the car were labeled "RIGHT SIDE", and had lefthanded threads.
I would have thought only MG owners would be confused with such clear
labeling! ;-)>
My Healey and my wire wheeled trailer had different, early knockoffs (with
the fine threads). They are labeled NEAR for the left side and OFF for the
right. Lefthanded threads were on the right side of the car. I don't know
what was meant by NEAR and FAR. Is it relative to the "curb" when normally
driving on the lefthand side of the road???
I can speak from experience that knockoffs, when installed on the correct
side of the car, will tend to loosen when braking. I had a front wheel
quickly loosen and come off many years ago when I had to slam on the brakes
(I admit the wheel and adapter had been totally "wrung", previously. They
both _had_been on the rear. I had switched the wheel and adapter from the
rear to the front in order to drive the car. When on the rear, it had
loosened completely while backing up.)
I have certainly read of instances of wire wheels loosening when installed
incorrectly or when towed backwards. Various information has been written
over the years regarding the natural tightening that occurs due to the "dual
cone action", as described in Keith Bennet's E-mail.
It was asked about Chrysler and other products that used to have lefthanded
studs and lugnuts years ago. My Austin Princess has lefthanded wheel studs
on the left side of the car. The nuts happen to be brass and Whitworth, as
well, FWIW.
Keith Edwards
Suffolk, VA
kedwards@norfolk.infi.net
2 '62 TR3Bs
2 '67 TR4As
1 '54 Austin-Healey 100
1 '54 Austin Princess Vanden Plas limo (For Sale)
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