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Re: Dual SU HS2 Emission Control Valve

To: dave@ece.concordia.ca
Subject: Re: Dual SU HS2 Emission Control Valve
From: CBrown1500@aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 May 1996 22:43:09 -0400
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
In a message dated 96-05-29 01:45:47 EDT, you write:

>t
>
>I'm about to finish getting a dual SU HS2 setup from a 67 Spitfire 
>ready for my 78 Spitfire and just have a few questions.
>
>1) How does the Emission Control Valve fit onto the intake manifold?
>   From what I can see, the ECV just plugs into the top of the 
>   intake manifold.  But the connection don't seem too secure and air 
>   tight.  Wouldn't this setup cause vaccum leaks?
>
>2) What kind of hose can I use for the ECV connection?  Can I 
>   use regular heater hose for this application?
>
>3) Which metering needle is correct for a dual HS2 with a Spitfire 
>   1500 engine using K&N air filters?  I guess I can use the original
>   metering needle and set it a little rich to avoid the engine from
>   running lean at high rmp without a problem, right?

Dave,

I just recently put HS2s on my '73 Spit 1500. After playing around with a few
other sizes, I've finally settled on ABN needles. You didn't say if you had
done any performance modifications on your engine which could require a
thinner needle taper. My '73 engine is fairly stock (less .050 off the head)
and has about 80k on the clock. Every engine is a little different, but the
ABNs may be a good place to start if you're still fairly stock. 

Many needle sizes are still available from Joe Curto in NY at 718-762-7878.
You may also try Hal Rogers in Louisiana. His phone # is 318-742-3651 or
e-mail him at HDR64@aol.com. I spent about $18 on my last pair from Curto,
about 3 months ago.

The problem with running the stock needles a "little rich" is that by the
time you get the higher rpms right you'll be running way rich at idle. The
object is to have a fairly normal shoulder dimemsion, so the carb can be made
to idle properly, then find the taper that matches your engine's needs as
speed increases. Once you vary from stock equipment, it's going to be trial
and error.

The PCV valve is indeed a tapered press fit. As you push it into the
manifold, give it a couple of twists to get it in as far as possible. Mine's
been in for about four months and I haven't had a problem. If you're still
concerned, a little smear of silicone sealant may ease your mind.

There is a real crankcase vent type of rubber hose out there. If you can find
it in a 1/2" ID go for it. Otherwise just use heater hose and be prepared to
replace it a little more frequently. Watch for softening and collapse. My
original installation of four months ago (daily driving) is still hanging in
there.  

Have fun
Charlie B.
Capital Triumph Register

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