Fellow Motorheads,
Indeed, why do both Haynes and Bentley have instructions to remove the
half-shafts complete, after wiring them together? Granted, the wire will
keep them from falling apart once out and ripping the accordion boot, but
why remove the inner part at all if you only need to check the outer
U-joint or bearing hub??? The splines are KEYED by one oversize spline, at
least on my TR-250 and a crashed '75 TR-6 I robbed bearing hubs from, so
why disturb the inner Nylock nuts on the diff flange if that's not nec-
essary? The stone guard (inner U-joint) won't pass thru the hole in the
swingarm, at least on the 250, anyway....
So why not loosen the wire on the accordion boot and just slip out the
outer section ? Worked fine for me. Slipped on the salvaged outer section
after cleaning, checking, re-greasing, etc, re-wired the accordion boot,
and was back on the road in a couple of hours. I suspect that separating
the shaft like that would be the easy way to replace the inner stone guard
and check the inner U-joint, etc. if necessary, too.
Careful with the hub mounting studs, they're in the aluminum swingarm.
Good luck, and when your LBC stops dripping oil, DON'T try to start it..
It's out of oil !!
Tom Tweed
TR-250
Miami Valley Triumphs; 6-Pack
SW Ohio
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