The advice from other posters is very good.
One thing Ron didn't explain was the reason that you should run the engine
at 2000 to 2500. The camshaft gets most of its oil from the slinging effect
of the crankshaft. You can ruin a camshaft (and lifters) by not running the
engine fast enough on first start up. There may be a tendency to want to
just idle it in the beginning just to be "safe," but don't do it.
Thatbs one of the great things about a roller cam - it's not as critical on
startup; however, it wouldn't hurt, just to be on the safe side.
Jerry Christopherson
9473187
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Fraser
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 3:05 PM
To: 'Tim Webster' ; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine run in
Tim
First you want to prime the carb and check for any fuel leaks;
electric fuel pumps make this easy.
According to Tom Monroe's book on Rebuilding a Small Block Ford;
Start the engine and bring the RPM up to between 2000 and 2500 for 30 min
Check to make sure you have oil pressure, at least 30 psi within 15 seconds
Watch RPM to make sure it stays between 2000 and 2500
Check for any fluid leaks
I would also watch the coolant temperature to make sure it stays constant
once it gets up to temperature.
Shut engine off after 30 min
Check all fluid levels
Setup your timing light, start engine, bring idle down to normal, set
initial timing.
Test drive
Go for a test drive, vary your speed but don't accelerate hard
Check to make sure everything is working
Listen for any problems, be alert for anything
Return to your garage
Check for fluid leaks; fix any leaks
Check all fluid levels
Look for anything that could become a problem
Some recommend checking bolt torque after cool down; intake manifold and
exhaust manifolds
I would repeat all fluid checks before and after any drive just to
be sure everything is OK
I think I ran the break in oil for about 500 miles before changing.
I've never had a problem with air pockets, run the engine, open the
heater valve, keep an eye on the level in the header tank. You could
remove one of the heater core hoses and pour some coolant into the heater
core first if you choice.
I've never run Synthetic oil in my Tiger but they are making better
synthetic oils every year and some day there maybe no other choice. I
would not use it for break in and I don't think I would even consider it
until after 5000 miles.
Enjoy the ride.
Ron Fraser
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tim Webster
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 11:57 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Engine run in
Hi to all,
There is a bewildering array of conflicting information on the www regarding
the engine run in process. I have my newly rebuilt 260 nearly ready to fire
and am looking to the list for what is the best way to accomplish this job
in a way that will ensure a long and happy life for the engine (and by
extension, me).
The engine is .030 over and apart from that was restored to stock specs.
Questions might include;
-type of oil to use
-length of time before oil changes
-best rpm loading and duration of run in periods before allowing engine to
cool
-best way to ensure the engine will be free of air pockets (taking into
account the presence of the heater core
-best type of coolant to use
-thoughts on the use of synthetic oil during run in and/or after run in
It was gratifying this week to turn the key and hear her turn over without
having to grab a fire extinguisher, if you know what I mean...
Thank you,
Tim
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