I myself have spent a lot of time recently on this topic.
Hopefully you assembled the motor using assembly lube at all the critical
points and turnedB the motor over with the starter a very minumum number of
times!
Ab solutely stay away from synthetic oilB . It is too slick to allow surfaces
to mate properly.
One of the most critical break-in issues has to do with a flat tappet
hydraulic cam.B The cam manufacturer should have given you info on oil type
and weight, rpm times and level sequences, etc.B B You need to add a break in
additive as well to get the zinc you need for proper wear protection. (And add
to the oil at all future oil changes, unless using one of the few brands that
still have it).B B Mix the additive into the oil to get a good distribution
before putting it in your motor.
FWIW, I put in a Lunati cam.B They recommend 30W non-detergent NON-Synthetic
oil for initial startup and first 500 miles.B B After that you can switch to
a premium multigrade oil but do not use synthetic until after 5000 miles.B B
Some manufacturers recommend an oil and filter change right after the initial
cam breakin runs.B B Again with the using the initial breakin oil and
additive formula with fresh oil and additive.B My thinking is it cannot hurt!
You should prime the oil system before any engine turning.B B It helps to
fill the oil filter directly as a part of putting in the oil with its premixed
breakin additive.B Priming involves a 1/4 inch shaft down the distributor
hole engaged in the oil pump.B Moroso is one company that sells them.B B
Check your local speed shop.B You need to spin the pump with a heavy duty
corded drill, preferably a 1/2 inch size.B B Since normal operating pressure
is 50 pounds, it takes a lot of power to get it up there.B B My regular hand
drill would not cut it.B I ended up (actually my son did) using a socket and
medium length breaker bar and a lot of shoulder power.
Ideally, you would like to see oil coming out of all the pushrod holes and on
rocker assemblies in both cylinders to assure complete oil priming throughout
the motor.B B That of course means you have the valve covers off with the car
in the motor.B With stock covers it can be done.B B Just be sure and put
them back on before starting the motor!
That is the oil side of things.B I will let others cover the rest of your
questions.B B Otherwise this will get way too long!B Again, best place to
strart on a lot of this is what your cam manufacturer recommends.B Should be
on the printed material, or maybe their web site.
Good luck!
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Webster" <crabco@shaw.ca>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 10:56:49 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Engine run in
Hi to all,
B
There is a bewildering array of conflicting information on the www regarding
the engine run in process. I have my newly rebuilt 260 nearly ready to fire
and am looking to the list for what is the best way to accomplish this job
in a way that will ensure a long and happy life for the engine (and by
extension, me).
B
The engine is .030 over and apart from that was restored to stock specs.
Questions might include;
B
-type of oil to use
-length of time before oil changes
-best rpm loading and duration of run in periods before allowing engine to
cool
-best way to ensure the engine will be free of air pockets (taking into
account the presence of the heater core
-best type of coolant to use
-thoughts on the use of synthetic oil during run in and/or after run in
B
It was gratifying this week to turn the key and hear her turn over without
having to grab a fire extinguisher, if you know what I mean...
B
Thank you,
Tim
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