i snapped a drill bit off in a small bolt last year. it took about 2 hours
with a dremel to cut it out if i remember rightly. lots of patience is
required!
On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 12:27 PM, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>wrote:
> Removing a broken easy-out should be done with a right-hand rotating
> tool, since the easy-out is intended to dig in with left-hand rotation.
> Then once you get the easy-out removed, you can switch to a left-handed
> cutting tool to go at the original fastener.
>
> I also think the diamond burr is the way to go to remove the easy-out,
> unless you can get someone to EDM it.
>
> I don't recall it being mentioned, but what is it that has the stuck
> fastener again? If it's aluminum then use phosphoric acid (Coke!) to
> erode the steel fastener and easy-out...
>
> Theo
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry &
> > Maureen (Mo)
> > Sent: August 17, 2009 10:59 AM
> > To: Paul.Tonizzo@sybase.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] easy outs
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > Trying to remove an easy out with a drill bit might be a big
> > challenge. Easy outs are harder than most drills, not
> > withstanding carbide. You haven't said what size the broken
> > stud is; if it's small (like less than 1/4 inch) I have had
> > good luck using a Dremel tool with diamond bits (burs)
> > (Harbor Freight, like item #36252-1ADH) use lots of cooling
> > fluid. In fact you could use that super duper penetrating
> > combo of ATF/acetone (50/50 mix) that guys were talking about
> > a while ago. Just don't get it so hot that the acetone
> > ignites. HA. That might even make getting the stud out easer
> > also. You could also use WD-40; the main thing is to keep the
> > tool cool.
> > If the stud is bigger you could still use a bur it would just
> > take longer.
> >
> > Good luck
> >
> > Jerry Christopherson
> > 9473187
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